Tag Archives: Sea Kayaking

Friendly Creatures: Kayak Camping in Florida, Part 1

By Johna Till Johnson
Photos by Vladimir Brezina

Prelude

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All set to launch!

“And I want to see a manatee,” Vlad said.

We were discussing our goals for our upcoming kayak camping trip along the Gulf Coast of Florida.

The primary goal was to familiarize ourselves with the route of the WaterTribe Everglades Challenge, a 300-mile race from Tampa Bay to Key Largo that we hope to paddle next year.

It’s held every March, and is open to all forms of small non-motorized boats, whether human- or wind-powered (the wind-powered boats usually win).  There’s no fixed route—competitors simply need to get themselves from the start to the finish in the space of 8 days, although they must check in at three intermediate checkpoints.

It sounds straightforward enough, but there are plenty of reasons  it’s called a “challenge” (including a few that we learned on this trip).

First is the sheer length, which requires paddlers to clock upwards of 30 nautical miles per day.  Then there’s navigation, particularly if you opt for traversing the mangrove swamps in the Everglades. Your sea kayaking skills need to be up to snuff as well, since at least part of the route will take paddlers out on the open Gulf.  Making and breaking camp quickly and efficiently can be its own challenge (as we were soon to find out).

And finally, there are the dangerous animals: Alligators and snakes, but also raccoons (which reportedly love to steal kayakers’ food) and all manner of smaller biting and stinging critters, from mosquitoes to scorpions.

We’d originally intended to paddle the Everglades Challenge this past February, but Hurricane Sandy knocked those plans for a loop by damaging Pier 40, our customary launch place. Since we couldn’t paddle for much of the winter, we were woefully out of shape.

And to be honest, we weren’t really ready to tackle the Everglades Challenge. We’ve done a lot—but we’d never participated in a  Florida race that required kayak-camping.

That’s why we decided to start with a trial run: this trip. Our goal was to spend a week or so doing a stretch of kayak-camping along the route of the Challenge, to get a feel for the terrain and what we’d be facing.

And, as Vlad noted, to experience some of the wilderness, including those dangerous creatures. On the bright side, we hoped to see a manatee (or two). As it turned out, we met more creatures than we’d bargained for!

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Escape

By Vladimir Brezina

This week’s Photo Challenge is Escape.

Congrats on a successful escape!

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until recaptured, of course—

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(From Day 5 of our 2012 Long Island kayak circumnavigation)

And here‘s a more active escapee…

Travel Theme: Beaches

By Vladimir Brezina

Ailsa’s travel-themed photo challenge this week is Beaches.

Walking out onto the beach at dawn

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or relaxing on it at sunset

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the beach is a magical place…

But as kayakers, we look on beaches with a practical eye. And there’s always something to complain about.

The beach might vanish underwater at high tide—

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or be painfully broad at low tide—

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Too steep—

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(full story is here)

Too rocky—

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or, on the contrary, too sandy (sugar-fine sand, no matter how magical it might be otherwise, gets in everything)—

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Too much surf—

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Too many people—

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But sometimes, just sometimes, we land on that perfect beach, not too narrow, not too broad, not too steep, with waves lapping gently on the soft sand, where we are alone, where the dusk and dawn are truly magical…

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A Spring Paddle Along the Palisades

By Vladimir Brezina

Yesterday, we paddled up the Hudson River along the Palisades, all freshly green…

(click on any photo to start slideshow)

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Best of all, as the last photo shows, the official kayak-launching dock at Pier 40 has finally been put back into place (mostly), six months after Hurricane Sandy left it in a crumpled mess last October…

Weekly Photo Challenge: From Above

By Vladimir Brezina

This week’s Photo Challenge is From Above.

Kayak sailing in Long Island Sound, NY, in August 2007. The camera was mounted at the top of the mast.

Day 2, 12:20 PM

(click on any photo to start slideshow)

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Story is here, more photos are here.

We’re Back!

By Vladimir Brezina

We’re back from our week-long kayak trip, safe and sound—well, except for the usual collection of sunburn blisters and cuts and scrapes and insect bites…

Thank you so much, everybody who wished us a safe and fun trip—it was magical! Johna’s still writing the story and I am processing hundreds of photos. Here are a few to get you started…

Oh, I forgot to mention where we went! Any guesses?

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Travel Theme: Pale

By Vladimir Brezina

Ailsa’s travel-themed photo challenge this week is Pale. Once again, her chosen theme is somehow strangely linked to The Daily Post’s photo challenge this week, Color—although for a change it’s the polar opposite.

In response to The Daily Post’s challenge, I’ve posted some highly colored kayaking photos. But of course I have some pale ones as well…

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This Year’s Visit to the Swinburne Island Seals

By Vladimir Brezina

Last week’s excitement about the East River Dolphin reminded us that we hadn’t seen our old friends, the Swinburne Island seals, in almost a year, since last April in fact. So on Sunday we paddled down to visit them again.

We paddled up to Swinburne Island in what we hoped was a stealthy manner, cameras at the ready.

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Unfortunately, with the morning’s forecast of significant winds and, presumably, waves and spray—which in the event did not materialize—I left my non-waterproof DSLR, with its telephoto lens, at home. So both of us were limited to our little waterproof cameras—not really suitable for capturing the details of distant seal heads in the water.

And soon there were heads popping up all around, peering at us with a cautious curiosity. Now and then one advanced daringly close, then immediately crash-dived with a snort and a loud splash.

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If you look at the photo above closely (click on it to enlarge), it shows seven seal heads. Altogether, by counting the number visible simultaneously or nearly simultaneously all around, we estimated that there were at least 15 seals around us, although there could well have been many more. There were a few small seals, presumably babies.

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As usual, the seals preferred to observe us without being themselves observed. They popped up directly behind our boats and peered at us intently, then immediately dived as soon as we turned around.

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As the seals heads rose out of the water in upredictable locations around us for a few seconds before disappearing again, we snapped away in the hope of capturing the decisive moment.

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And indeed, in some shots, when we later examined them at home, there were seals in places where we had not even noticed them at the time…

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Swinburne Island itself, although clearly hospitable to seals and seabirds, seemed more desolate than on our previous visits, even more empty of the ruins and dead trees that had covered it, probably as a result of the visit of Hurricane Sandy back in October of last year.

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Then it was time for some tea on the water, if possible out of the cold wind. We considered rafting up in the lee of Swinburne Island itself, but it was clear that hundreds of gulls would seriously object. We ended up having our tea off the neighboring island, Hoffman, where the local opposition was less intense.

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After tea, with the current now turned in our favor, we paddled back to the Verrazano Narrows on our way home.

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And, in the shadow of the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, Nature had a final bonus ready for us—a porpoise (or perhaps another dolphin), calmly surfacing, arching its back, diving again…

It was in almost exactly the same spot where we had observed another porpoise two years ago, in late March 2011. Come to think of it, that previous sighting was the subject of the very first post on Wind Against Current :-)

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Together with the sighting of the dolphins and seals in the East River last week, it’s hard not to feel that marine mammals are really coming back to New York Harbor!

Next up, I believe we are ready to encounter at least a  medium-sized whale…

A Magical Maiden Voyage

By Johna Till Johnson
Photos by Vladimir Brezina

“This will be your best circumnav ever,” said Randy, smiling.

I smiled back, a bit dubiously.

Randy’s a friend and the owner of the New York Kayak Company.  I’d just bought a new kayak from him—a red-and-black-and-white Tiderace Xplore-S Carbon Pro, a long, lean, lightweight boat designed for expedition sea kayaking.

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Solstice

I loved the new boat—which I promptly named Solstice—but I was feeling a bit squeamish about taking her for a maiden voyage on a Manhattan circumnavigation. It’s always a bit tricky paddling a new boat, particularly one that handles considerably differently than your previous one.

Solstice is a good 15 inches longer than Photon, my old Valley Avocet, and an inch or two narrower.  That design makes for a boat that’s faster and more powerful, but also potentially harder to control. And although circumnavigating Manhattan isn’t an inherently challenging proposition, there are some tricky bits, even in calm conditions.

The  swirling eddies at Hell Gate can almost always be counted on to provide some excitement, for instance, as can the ferries at the Battery (and their wakes).  Being unable to handle your boat  in such situations is not a good thing—even less so in winter, when a capsize can lead to hypothermia, even if the rescue or self-rescue is effective. So taking a brand-new boat out for a 6-hour trip seemed, under the circumstances, slightly risky.

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In the water for the first time!

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A longer, narrower boat…

But Randy’s confidence was contagious, and I tried my best to shelve the worries.  And as Vlad and I launched a bit later that day, we were both looking forward to the outing, our first longer paddle in the NYC area since before Hurricane Sandy.  I hoped Randy was right.

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First strokes

I had no idea how right he’d turn out to be. The trip was… well, “magical” is the best way I can describe it. Or maybe “enchanted”…

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First NYC Paddle Since Sandy!

By Vladimir Brezina and Johna Till Johnson

Four months is a long time.

And  it’s been just over four months since we’ve been out on NYC waterways—since our trip to the Gowanus Canal right before Hurricane Sandy, in fact.

A variety of factors kept us off the water: Sandy cleanup, boat issues, and a couple of Florida trips that provided the option of paddling in balmier waves.

But we’re back—and delighted to make our first NYC area trip of 2013, a short but satisfying jaunt up the Hudson to the George Washington Bridge.

(Click on any photo to start a slideshow.)

The individual photos are here.