Author Archives: Johna Till Johnson

A Meditation on Gratitude

Vlad in his happy place (ca. 2011)

By Johna Till Johnson

“Vlad, what language are they speaking?” I asked. The young couple in the sick bay next to us were murmuring softly to each other in a language I couldn’t quite grasp. Germanic, I guessed, from the “ya’s” and “nein”’s.

“Yiddish,” he replied, and it suddenly all made sense: Orthodox. From what I could glimpse through the fluttering curtain separating her bed from Vlad’s, the woman was young—no more than early 20s–and conservatively dressed in a long dark skirt and blouse.  I hadn’t been able to see him, just a glimpse of dark clothing and a warm, low-pitched voice.

She’d arrived around five AM. We were awakened by her screams—desperate wails of pain that didn’t sound like they came from an adult, sentient, human.  At first I thought it was a child, or someone suffering from dementia. But in between the screams, she begged coherently for pain medication.

It must have arrived eventually, because she quieted. Then I heard her say, in a normal voice, evidently to a nurse, “I’m sorry. I’m not usually such a bad patient. But the pain was so bad…”

I wondered briefly what was wrong with her. And in a more mercenary vein, I wondered if there was a way to get a chair such as the one her husband was sitting on, on their side of the curtain.

It was early in the morning on Thursday, November 6th. We’d arrived in the emergency room the night before, at the urgent request of one of Vlad’s oncology nurses.

I had been sitting in the living room, digging through a pint of ice cream in lieu of dinner.  It had been a long day, and I was exhausted. I was just waiting for Vlad to finish his dinner so I could give him his shot and get some sleep.

I heard the phone ring, and Vlad pick up. He started talking to the person at the other end, and my ears pricked up—we didn’t get many phone calls at 9 PM; usually they were automated reminders of appointments.

“High levels of potassium,” I heard. Immediately I put the container of ice cream down and ran into the bedroom, where I listened in.

The urgency in the nurse’s voice was palpable. Vlad had had his blood test that morning, to confirm he was ready to re-initiate chemo on the upcoming Monday. We already knew some of the results, because we’d visited his GP immediately afterwards, and she’d delivered the happy news that his blood hemoglobin was on the rise.

But now something was wrong, very wrong. High potassium levels, we gathered from the nurse, was a sign of potential kidney failure. Worse, they could trigger an immediate and fatal heart attack.

“You have to go to the emergency room immediately,” Paola said. “We’ll figure out what’s causing it, but we have to bring those levels down right away.  You don’t have to go to our emergency room (Mt. Sinai’s). You can go to the local one.”

“Mt. Sinai is local to us,” Vlad said with a chuckle. “We live just 10 blocks away.”

“OK,” she said, stressing again that we had to go immediately. She said the doctor would “blue-slip” Vlad’s admission, to cut through the red tape at triage and make sure he was treated right away.

I quickly packed a small bag, annoyed at myself for not having a checklist for trips to the emergency room. After all, it was our third visit in two months—we should have the drill down by now.

What to bring? Food? Pillows? I settled on extra sweaters (it was a warm night, but it’s always cold in emergency rooms), laptop, phones, and some books. (Later I built out that checklist—other things to include are blankets, snacks, water, eyeshades and noise-cancelling headphones).  Then I quickly brushed my teeth to remove the ice-cream scum.  It might be a while before I could brush them again. The nurse had said we’d be in the ER for a few hours at least.

It turned out to be a lot longer.

We arrived around 9:15, and true to Paola’s promise, made it through triage in record time. Soon we were sitting in a row of chairs inside the ER proper, waiting to be seen.

Or rather, Vlad was sitting. I was standing, because there was no room to sit. In fact, there was no room anywhere. Every bay was full, and gurneys packed the aisles.  Even the chairs were full—Vlad snagged the last one.

A nurse came to redo the blood test (since there was a possibility the first one had been mistaken—blood-potassium tests can be somewhat unreliable). She took the blood away and we waited for 45 minutes, maybe an hour.

I spent the time searching online for high potassium causes and treatments, and discovered some intriguing information that I wanted to ask the doctor about. But …where was the doctor? Vlad had been there almost an hour, and nobody had come by to see him, other than the nurse who drew blood. The oncology nurse had stressed that he needed to be seen urgently, yet nothing was happening!

I went off in search of a white lab coat. Fortunately, the doctor came over immediately and apologized for the oversight, explaining that the ER was particularly chaotic that night.

We discussed the situation. The doctor confirmed the potassium was still high, and then said,  “The thing is, we don’t know what’s causing the high potassium.”

“Could it be the lisinopril?” I asked, based on my web research. I was referring to Vlad’s blood pressure medication. One of the rarer side effects was an impact on kidney function. The doctor’s eyes lit up, “Good call,” he said.  “It very well could be.” Fortunately, Vlad had stopped taking that medication already—with the approval of his GP—so if it were the cause, he should be getting better soon.

But that was a discussion for later. For now, the plan was to get IV saline infusions to bring the potassium levels down to a non-life-threatening level. One of the nurses brought over a pole with an IV drip, and the infusions began.

The problem was, the ER was so crowded that there was still a wait for a gurney.

As we waited, one man in particular caught our eye. He was tall and burly, with graying hair and blue eyes. He wore blue scrubs indicating he was one of the support and operations staff, but carried himself confidently and had a calm and steadying manner with the patients as he delivered oxygen tanks and answered their questions.

After a while we noticed that the other staff—even, occasionally, doctors and nurses—seemed to rely on him to know what was going on, and even defer to him occasionally.

“He seems like he’s running the place,” Vlad commented. And indeed he did, possibly because he was older than the mostly-30ish staff.

“Where do you think his accent’s from?” Vlad asked me rhetorically, because it was obvious: “Russia,” I said promptly.

Sure enough, when the man stopped by to let us know a gurney was on the way, he inquired about Vlad’s name and background. Vlad reciprocated, and it turned out that the man–whose name was Sergei—had been born in Ukraine when it was still part of Russia.  

“He was probably a doctor back in Russia,” I said, half-jokingly. “Could very well be,” Vlad replied in all seriousness, noting that he’d had a laboratory tech with advanced degrees back in Russia. Because the United States didn’t recognize the Russian medical system, people who came over in the 1980s and 1990s often ended up working in jobs adjacent to their original professions, but at a much lower level.

Former doctor or no, Sergei became our guardian angel for the next few hours. Once he located the gurney, he suggested I stand guard over it while Vlad went to the bathroom, because the gurneys were in high demand.  And he would wander over to check on us every now and then.

Initially, while we waited for a bay to come free, the gurney was in a row of four lined up on the open floor of the ER. There were very few chairs, and no room for one anyway, so I sat on a corner of Vlad’s bed. We both had books, but little desire to read, so we passed the time by watching the controlled chaos of the ER.

By around 2 AM, one of the bays came free, and we were happy to note that it was a “corner” bay, meaning that there was a wall on one side, instead of curtains on both. Definitely top ER real estate!  Sergei wheeled the gurney in, and moved the IV.

We were settled in our new home—though we had no idea how long we’d be there. The doctors had indicated that if the tests showed Vlad’s blood potassium was coming down, he’d be discharged to go home.  If it wasn’t, he’d be admitted to the hospital. And who knew what would happen after that? I tried not to think about the possibilities—kidney damage, dialysis, wait-listed for a transplant…

“Maybe the third time will be a charm,” I said. The last two times we’d gone to the ER, we’d gotten bad news: First, Vlad’s cancer diagnosis, and second, emergency surgery for a ruptured intestine. Maybe this would be the time we’d escape relatively unscathed.

At any rate, there wasn’t much else to do, and noplace to sit. So I crawled onto the gurney beside Vlad, and we both fell asleep.

We were awakened a few hours later by the frantic screams of the young Orthodox woman in the bay next to us.  Fortunately (for her far more than for us) the pain medication seemed to work, and the screams were replaced by her soft murmurs in Yiddish. Once we figured out the accent, we both drifted back off to sleep.

We woke again a few hours later, when Vlad’s doctors arrived. The news was good, but not great: Vlad’s blood levels had improved, but not enough for them to send him home.

“We’re admitting you,” the doctor said flatly, meaning to the hospital.

 Vlad’s face fell, and I realized how much we’d both been counting on being allowed to go home in the morning. But at least they didn’t seem to think the kidneys were permanently damaged.

There was yet another twist as I discovered after venturing out for breakfast. I wasn’t sure I’d have enough time to eat before he was moved to a hospital room, so I checked with the nurses. One rolled her eyes at the question. “You won’t be going anywhere soon, honey,” she said. “The wait for a hospital bed is 24 to 48 hours.”

One to two days?! Well, that certainly left me enough time for breakfast!

So I went down to the cafeteria and savored some quiche and sausages, and best of all, strong hot coffee. (The Mt. Sinai cafeteria is actually surprisingly good, with a wide variety of fresh food.)

Back at Vlad’s bedside, I noticed the young couple next to us was gone—temporarily, it appeared, as their belongings were still on the bed. The chair I’d noticed earlier now stood empty against the wall.

I sat down right away, and plugged in my laptop to the power strip along the wall. As the morning progressed, I read and Vlad alternately read and dozed, as the saline solution continued to course into his arm.

The young couple reappeared, and I stood up. “Here’s your chair back,” I said to the man. Like many Orthodox men, he appeared both younger and older than he probably was, his fresh, unlined face and gentle eyes a contrast to his severe clothing and erect posture.  He could have been as old as 30, or as young as 20.


“No, no,” he demurred. “You keep it.”

“No, it’s yours,” I insisted.

“We will share,” he said firmly, and gestured to me to sit down again.

So I sat back down and read for a while. Then Vlad announced he was hungry.

This was a positive sign! Vlad’s appetite had been returning slowly since the surgery, but the rate of increase appeared to be accelerating.

He’d eaten breakfast—both our breakfasts, actually—a few hours before, when an orderly delivered two sealed boxes each containing a dry sandwich, water, and an apple. (I was amused to note that the seal indicated the contents were kosher.)

No lunch appeared to be forthcoming (I found out later why). So I suggested that I pick up some lunch for us both from the cafeteria.

We shared a picnic of fried chicken and salad (for me) and sandwich, pudding, and juice (for him) on the hospital bed.  Then we had a long afternoon of reading and dozing, with the curtains closed. “It’s like being in a tent,” Vlad commented.  And in a way, it was—urban camping. But instead of the dramatic forces of nature, we were surrounded by human drama.

The young couple next door once again left for tests, and returned. The young man repossessed the chair while I napped, chatting with his wife in Yiddish. The sound was strangely peaceful and lulling.  

Then the doctors came by for a discussion, which of course was in English.  I couldn’t help but overhear, since they were inches away, separated only by a cloth curtain.

They asked her if she’d ever had surgery. “I had two ceasarians,” she said in her gently accented English, with an unmistakable note of pride.

So young! I thought, and wondered who was caring for the children. They couldn’t possibly be very old.

Then they explained her condition: kidney stones. Just the thought made me wince.  The pain was terrible, but they had medication for it. Hopefully she wouldn’t end up in such horrible pain again.

And then they said the magic words: “We’ll be sending you home later today!” My heart leapt with happiness for them.

“Oh good,” the man said.  “Do you know when?”

“It usually takes a little time to process the discharge papers,” the doctor said.  (That, we would find out, would turn out to be the understatement of the year.)

“I see,” the man replied. “I am hoping… we are hoping… we have a wedding to go to tonight.”

Everyone chuckled. “We’ll do our best,” the doctor said. I thought of the joy of a Jewish wedding (I’ve been to a few, though never Orthodox) and hoped the young couple would be able to make it.

They stayed for a surprisingly long time. At one point, when the young man was gone, I was returning to Vlad’s gurney and saw her sitting up in bed. “I hear you’re going home,” I said.

“Yes,” she replied, with a radiant smile.

I smiled back. “I’m so happy for you.”

“Thank you!”

It felt good to have a connection with her, and with her husband who so decently shared the chair (and who despite my many urgings, never once asked to use it when I was in it).

Dinner was another “hospital picnic” from the cafeteria. The young couple departed, and the bay was left empty for a while, to be replaced by a large Hispanic family. The rules dictated one visitor per bed, but the staff tended to look the other way, and this patient had at least two or three visitors, chattering away animatedly in Spanish.

 I dozed for a bit. The curtains were closed, and the background noise from the ER floor was loud: Machines beeping, people talking, patients moaning. But over all of it, I could hear someone speaking rhythmically. A man’s voice, deep and gravelly. Reciting something, it seemed. The accent was pure New York, but the cadence was strangely familiar.

“As it was in the beginning… is now and ever shall be… world without end, Amen.”

It was the Glory Be, I realized. One of the canonical Catholic prayers, often recited as part of the Rosary. And sure enough, the man moved on to the Our Father and the Hail Mary.  I’d heard those prayers thousands of times in my childhood.

I found myself reciting silently along with him, the words and phrases appearing as if by themselves on my lips. And then I drifted off to sleep again…

I was awakened by the arrival of Vlad’s night nurse, Leilani, a slight, ebullient young Filipina with a kind demeanor. She introduced herself, changed his saline solution, and said she’d return in a bit to check on him.

Sergei reappeared, too, on his second twelve-hour shift. “You guys still here?” he asked incredulously. We nodded. “You are the most patient man in the world,” he said to Vlad.

He was right—patience is one of Vlad’s strong suits—but there didn’t seem to be anything else to do.  Complaining wouldn’t get him a hospital room that didn’t exist, and he was getting the treatment he needed. Plus, he wasn’t in pain—in fact, he was feeling better than at anytime since the surgery.

The evening wore on, and even Sergei acknowledged he was tired. On a rare break in his duties, he leaned on a stool and chatted with us. He’d only gotten an hour or two of sleep himself, thanks to a busy schedule and the gridlocked traffic outside.

Then Leilani appeared. “You should go home and get some sleep,” she said to me. My friends had been urging the same thing, via email.

But I worried that if Vlad were moved to a hospital bed during the night, I wouldn’t be able to find him. So Leilani kindly gave me the ER main desk phone number to call if I needed to know where Vlad was.

Of course, Vlad had his phone with him and could easily send me email if he was moved—in my sleepy state, I’d forgotten that. At any rate, I took everyeone’s advice and went back to the apartment for a few hours of restful sleep.

I set the alarm for 6 AM but surprised myself by waking up a few minutes early. There was an email from Vlad, sent moments ago: “Surreal night… going to draw blood soon… latest I heard, if potassium and creatinine are lower, I can go home… but we’ll see…”

“Surreal?” That sounded interesting. 

I showered, made coffee, and packed up, optimistically packing Vlad’s new boots (which had arrived the day before) in the hopes that he’d be released soon.   One of his feet had been a bit floppy after the surgery, and the physical therapist had suggested wearing ankle boots to stabilize it.

Vlad also said he was hungry, so I brought cheese, crackers, yogurt and juice (remembering the dry breakfast of the day before). And, come to think of it, that had been the last food they offered us in the ER….

After Vlad had finished breakfast, he told me the story. Apparently it was a good idea that I’d gone home, because the ER had gotten even more chaotic overnight, and Vlad had gotten very little sleep.

At one point, he woke up to the rolling cadences of a southern-accented sermon. One of the patients, a black man who said he was a preacher, had launched into a sermon about Aaaron and Moses, in traditional call-and-response style.

 It was surprisingly good, Vlad said, and the ER “congregation” had listened approvingly, even the doctors and nurses.  

There were a few other stories, but that was the best one. I thought about the ever-changing range of cultures and religions packed into that room: Eastern European, Hispanic, Filipino, Orthodox, Catholic, Evangelical…

Overnight, the Hispanic family had left, and the bay next to ours had been occupied by an elderly black woman. She occasionally moaned in pain, and seemed a bit disoriented. Poignantly, there was no one beside her.  

She was neatly dressed, with strikingly well-cared-for nails in a becoming coral color. And she returned my smiles as I came and went, though we didn’t speak.

I was sitting beside Vlad reading when I heard a doctor come by. He was young, male, and obviously trying to be kind. But he clearly didn’t understand human dynamics.

“Do you have any family?” he asked the woman. I couldn’t hear her reply.

“Daughters, sons, brothers, sisters… Is there anyone with you?” he asked again.

Ask her who does her nails, I thought. They had clearly been done with love and attention. She seemed both too ill to have done them herself, and too frugal to pay for a professional manicure.  Find out who did her nails, I thought, and you’d find out who was standing in as “next of kin”.

But that detail evidently escaped the doctor, who was growing frustrated. Finally he just broke the news he’d come to deliver: “That leg is looking very bad. It’s going to have to come off. Do you hear me? We are going to have to amputate.”

My heart stopped, and Vlad and I looked at each other with shock. Vlad’s eyes crinkled with empathy.  “Probably cancer,” he whispered. “Or diabetes,” I said.  He nodded. We both winced. What a horrible way to find out: alone and in the ER. The only saving grace was that it wasn’t clear whether or not the woman understood him.

That wasn’t the only down note of the day. We’d been in the ER nearly 36 hours by this point, and the mood seemed to have grown bleaker somehow. More patients were moaning or screaming in pain—or at least it seemed that way to me. The staff was as attentive as possible, but the constant onslaught of human misery was draining.  One woman asked me for pain medication. I explained I was just a visitor, but she begged me to call a nurse, so I did—thinking all the while how difficult it must be to be bedridden, in pain, and alone.

I was happy to note that a visitor had finally arrived for the woman in the bay next to us: A young black woman, very poised, with an ethereal sense of calm. I couldn’t figure out her relationship to the older woman, but I was gratified by her first question: “Who did your nails?”

“See?!” I said triumphantly to Vlad. “She gets it!”

Her presence evidently soothed the older woman, who started speaking more coherently and animatedly than she had in hours. I wondered again if she understood about the amputation.

I was just about to get some breakfast when Vlad’s medical team appeared, with joyful news: He was to be released. Although his potassium was still a bit high, the kidneys were functioning normally. He would need to keep drinking water and get another blood test before the chemo, but otherwise he was fine. All they had to do was submit the paperwork.

This was great news. It was almost 10, and I figured we’d be out of there in 30 minutes. An hour at the outside.

“It might be longer than that,” Vlad warned, reminding me of the conversation with the Orthodox couple. “I can’t see why,” I retorted.

I soon learned, and began to understand something about the medical system that was, well, surreal.

After a half hour of waiting, I went to check with the discharge team to see what was going on. They told me they couldn’t discharge him without discharge paperwork. And nobody in the ER could issue that paperwork!

Apparently, once Vlad had been “admitted” to the hospital the day before, he was no longer the responsibility of the ER medical team. Although he was physically present in the ER, his care was the responsibility of his regular doctors. That’s why we hadn’t been offered meals—we weren’t the ER’s responsibility (though a few kind nurses checked in to make sure we were eating).

And the ER doctors couldn’t submit the paperwork to release him. That had to come from his own medical team—which had gone back to their rounds, believing that he was already released.

We were in limbo. And for the first time, I began to get frustrated. Mt. Sinai had a highly sophisticated online medical records system—yet they couldn’t discharge him unless a physical doctor physically showed up?

His doctors were off caring for patients—why should they have to come back just to issue some paperwork?

One of the ER doctors stopped by, just to check in.

I now knew that he could do nothing, but told him the situation anyway. He asked Vlad’s daytime nurse—a young blonde woman named Laura—to page his medical team. She’d already done so, it turned out, repeatedly. With no answer.

Another hour drew by.  I checked with the nurse. Still no response. By now it was 11:30.

“That’s it, we’re leaving.”  I said. “I have work to do, and this is ridiculous. We’ll leave now, and they can sort out their paperwork later.”

“No,” Vlad retorted angrily. “You leave. I’ll stay.”

“I don’t have time for this, and neither do you. We will do whatever they tell us if it’s a matter of medical treatment.  But I’m not going to sit around here while you’re not getting treatment, and should have been home, just for a bureaucratic snafu.”

We finally agreed that I’d walk over to his doctor’s offices, just a half-block away, and see if there was anything they could do.

Vlad’s doctors were as surprised as I was.  They thought we’d have been long gone from the ER, and said they hadn’t gotten any pages. Apparently there had been a communications gap between the ER and the physician’s assistant who was supposed to handle the paperwork. They volunteered to page her for me, and I headed back to the ER.

Whether coincidentally or not, she arrived a moment or two after I did—bearing the precious discharge papers. She apologized, and reiterated that she’d had no idea that he wasn’t going to be discharged immediately after she left.  She said she’d gotten no pages until the last one from the doctor’s office.

No matter. We were finally on our way.

And at 12:15 PM on Friday—39 hours after we’d entered, and nearly three hours after we’d been told we could go—we stepped out into the bright fall sunshine.

On the short cab ride home, I thought of all the people whose lives had crossed ours, and whose stories we’d been part of.

We hadn’t had a chance to say goodbye to Sergei, whose second shift had ended at 7 AM. I hoped he’d gotten some rest. The young Orthodox couple—had they made it to their wedding? The older black lady… I hoped someone was there to hold her hand when she woke up from anesthesia to discover she no longer had a leg. And the people whose faces we never saw, the man who recited the Catholic prayers and the preacher…

“I really hope we never have to go back there,” I said to Vlad. Three times in two months was more than enough for a while, and 40 hours in the ER had to be approaching some kind of record.

On further reflection, though, I realized the third time was a charm. We hadn’t gotten any life-changing diagnoses. And we couldn’t honestly say it was a bad experience. It wasn’t one we’d have chosen to have, or anything we’d like to repeat.

But for almost 40 hours, we’d been plugged into the lives of people—ourselves included—who were grappling with the fundamentals of human experience: pain, fear, faith, empathy, kindness. It left us feeling tired—exhausted—but also strangely alive.

Back at home, we were grateful to the point of tears for the little things: a comfortable bed, quiet environment, enthusiastic colleagues, and the generosity of friends who went above and beyond to deliver dinner (after we’d abruptly cancelled a planned visit).  Ordinary life suddenly seemed bigger, brighter, and more satisfying than we’d realized.

The First Leg!

Happy Team Trimorons in Victoria! (Photo:React Photography, Kelsey Fletcher)

It was an uneventful sail.

That is, if you don’t count bright sunshine, dying winds, a fierce opposing current towards the end… and the usual odds and ends of mechanical issues and trim. One of the pedal drives needed adjustment. The “cruising” setup of the boat (a full kitchen and bathroom) added weight.

But Team Trimorons safely crossed the 40-mile open-water “proving ground”, which is what the R2AK organizers call the first leg of the race. Basically, they test the sailors’ mettle with a 40-mile open-water passage, carefully monitored by support boats.

There’s no guarantee this leg will be the roughest part of the journey–in fact, there’s almost an iron-clad guarantee that it won’t be—but safely navigating, and sailing, and pedaling across 40 miles of open water tends to separate the do-ers from the dreamers.

Team Trimorons started in the chill 5 AM dawn. (Please note the warm, waterproof DexShell caps.. soon I’ll be letting you know how to get a Trimoron logo-ed cap of your very own!)

Jeff in drysuit
Chris bundled up!

By midday they’d stripped down to shorts and T shirts, and exchanged the warm hats for floppy sunhats (or none at all)….

Chris the pedaling champ!

About that pedaling…

I asked Jeff if he had to pedal much, and here was his (characteristically laconic) reply:

3-4 miles. Strong tide current against us into Victoria. The water was moving past us fast, but moving over the ground at less than 2 knots.

This was the first of the fierce Pacific Northwest currents. I’m sure it won’t be the last!

You may be thinking a 40-mile sail sounds strenuous. Heck, I think a 40-mile sail is pretty strenuous! But Maxi the cat was unimpressed. Maybe it’s because he saw what a very small portion of the race they’ve completed thus far:

Maxi is unimpressed…

That little blue line pointed to by the arrow? That’s how far they’ve come.
See that star WAY up in the upper right of the chart, under the word “Alaska”? Yeah. That one. That’s where they’re going.

40 miles down. 710 to go!

Looks Like They Made It!

Trimorons arrived in Port Townsend!

After four separate boat inspections (including the boat-sniffing dog) Team Trimorons crossed the mountains and arrived at Port Townsend. The next few days were busy doing last-minute packing and organizing, and a few other things…

Team Trimorons all together!
Logo placement #1…

There was the question of attaching the logos…

Logo placement #2

Then there was the question of organizing provisions…

Provisioning…

Chris is a neatnik, so Christina Rose is cleaner and more organized than she’s ever been in her life!

And Jeff needed a way to remember the occasion…

R2AK Forever!

Vlad can’t wait to start eating the roast meat…

Dinner!

And last but not least, a couple of shakedown cruises…

Testing the spinnaker…
And testing the genoa!

Monday, June 5 at 0500 is the big start. Team Trimorons assures me they’re rested and ready!

More Scenes From the Northcountry

Up ahead: The Crazy Mountains

The Two-Thirds Trimorons slept deeply and awoke early. The plan was to be on the road around 0400; there was a slight delay as they realized they’d managed to lock the keys inside the van.

Oops.

Fortunately one of the windows was slightly cracked, and they were able to use the boat hook to retrieve them. They started on their merry way, towards the Crazy Mountains.

Apparently the name is an anglification of a Crow name; Wikipedia gives two slightly different sources:

The name Crazy Mountains is said to be a shortened form of the name “Crazy Woman Mountains” given them, in complement to their original Crow name, after a woman who went insane and lived in them after her family was killed in the westward settlement movement.

The Crow people called the mountains Awaxaawapìa Pìa, roughly translated as “Ominous Mountains”, or even more roughly, “Crazy Mountains”. They were famous to the Crow people for having metaphysical powers and being unpredictable—a place used for vision quests.

The view alongside

In any event, you can see why they call Montana “Big Sky Country”….

The Crazy Mountains are getting closer….

And the Two-Thirds Trimorons are drawing towards Port Townsend….

In Washington State, they have mussel-sniffing dogs! “Finn was certified as a Zebra/Quagga mussel-detection dog in 2022”!

It looks like they’ll be following Route 90 into Seattle, and taking the ferry from there!

R2AK: Scenes From the Northern Lands

“Geese in Flight”, by Gary Greff

They call it the “Enchanted Highway”. It’s a 32-mile stretch of highway connecting with Route 94, in North Dakota, decorated with what’s billed as the largest collection of scrap-metal sculptures in the world.

Despite spending 30 years crisscrossing the United States as a long-haul trucker, Vlad doesn’t recall having been on route 94. So 2/3 of the Trimorons decided to take the Northern Route to Port Townsend. They didn’t take the Enchanted Highway, but came close enough to have a look at one of its most famous sculptures, “Geese in Flight”.

Farther along, they passed by the Theodore Roosevelt National Park, a section of the North Dakota badlands:

Cruising through the badlands…

It turns out that when you’re hauling a collapsible trimaran, you end up with more than just reduced mileage and a fair amount of wind drag. You get bugs. Lots of bugs. Whose short lives, sadly, become still shorter upon contact with the amas…

Bug cemetery

As our intrepid heroes drove into Montana, they encountered something they hadn’t expected…

All watercraft must be inspected!

It turns out that Montana, land of 3,227 lakes, is fiercely protective of its waters. Any boats entering the state must be inspected for the presence of invasive species, which includes mussels, plants, and ummmmm… barnacles!

Montana boat inspection

Apparently, the boat was launched in “high risk” waters. Fortunately for all involved, it had been thoroughly cleaned, dried, and painted since it last touched water. I feel a lot better about having spent a Saturday morning last month scrubbing barnacles off the bottom!

Johna scraping barnacles in April

Of course, Vlad also thoroughly cleaned, scrubbed, and painted the boat afterward! In any event, our hard work did the trick, and the Trimorons were rewarded with this:

Cleared to proceed!

Onward!

Trimorons inform me they’re planning to stop for the night and rest up before tackling the mountains tomorrow.

Halfway There!

Halfway there! (Actually, a bit more…)

Nothing much has changed here at Pomestye in a day and a half. The sky’s still cool and overcast, with drizzly-to-rainy patches. The earth smells fresh and the strawberries taste sweet. The birds chirp and the rooster crows.

But in the just under a day-and-a-half since Team Trimorons left, they’ve made it to the Dakota Badlands.

This sounds a lot more exciting than it is, as evidenced by Jeff’s video:

Sailing through the Badlands…

Fortunately, the trip thus far has been uneventful. The next big event (after arriving in Port Townsend) will be Chris’s arrival from the UK. Once the Trimorons are together… watch out, world!

And They’re Off!

Mast and Stern Tip Disappear…

It’s 0800 Sunday morning.

The faraway sound of the “Star Spangled Banner” filters through the air. Somewhere (the base across the river?) someone plays the recording every morning at 0800. 

It’s cool, about 60 degrees, and overcast, with drizzle. Earlier in the morning Vlad walked me through the garden, showing me which plants need to get fed, staked, or benignly ignored. I picked my first harvest of strawberries and pineberries (which taste like the Platonic ideal of strawberries, despite being white). The running of Pomestye is now in my hands, ready or not. 

Jeff and Vlad woke up early this morning, around five. They ran a few last loads out to the van, did a few last minute checks (who has what in the first aid kit?) followed by a hearty breakfast out on the deck: potatoes, scrambled eggs, and sausage, with not quite enough coffee (but is there ever enough coffee?). 

Inspecting the Rig

Then it was time to leave. 

We locked Callie inside to keep her from chasing after the van and trailer. They did the requisite checking of the hitch and confirmed the lights worked, taking about 20 minutes. 

I told Vlad to keep the windows open but wouldn’t say why. 

Vlad Ready to Go

As Vlad stepped on the gas, I hit “play” on my phone and blasted the USSR National Anthem. The Race to Alaska traditionally starts with that, for unknown reasons (This year, they’ll be playing the Ukrainian national anthem, which seems fitting.) 

They both grinned and laughed. Then with a wave and a smile, they disappeared. 

Their race has begun, at 0818 AM Sunday May 27. 

Stay tuned….!

“Am I Really Doing This?”

Team Trimoron Heads West

Captain Vlad

“We should do the race to Alaska.”

It didn’t sound like a big deal. Particularly after we’d just completed the Everglades Challenge (my second time, Vlad’s… ninth? We think.)

Still. 750 miles in the cold waters of the Pacific Northwest is very different from 300 miles in the warm sunshine of the Gulf of Florida. 10-kt currents? 30-foot-wide whirlpools? Two Coast Guard planes covering 700 miles of coastland?

There’s a fantastic documentary that describes the R2Ak, as aficionados call it. We watched it, and it went into my mental file for “maybe someday”.

“Someday” turned out to be June 5, 2023.

Not for me–I’ll get into that later. But earlier this year at the Everglades Challenge, Vlad and I connected with old friend Jeff Williams and new friend Chris Forrest. Vlad and I got to know Jeff as a fellow catamaran sailor in 2020 who gave us a literal helping hand when we had to get Vlad’s inflatable catamaran, 007, to the starting line in a hurry. A Canadian, Jeff is unflappably cheerful. I can’t picture him without a smile on his face.

Jeff Williams

Chris and I spent a couple of nights on the beach at Checkpoint 2 (which sounds way more risqué than it was). As we chatted, we discovered that neither of us were fazed by sleeplessness, barking dogs, or marauding hordes of mosquitos. A Brit, Chris had several solo ECs under his belt already.

Chris Forrest

Chris also turned out to be a world class cyclist (who completed a 700-mile race in under a week). That complemented Jeff’s marathon experience (including the Boston Marathon), both of which are likely to come in handy when the wind dies, as it inevitably will, and they’ll need to pedal their way north.

But I’m getting ahead of myself…

Long story short, Vlad, Chris, and Jeff decided to become Team Trimoron, so named because they plan to sail Vlad’s Corsair F-27 trimaran (not coincidentally the same one that Vlad and I escaped from New York on).

The F-27 Trimaran (at sunset near Solomon’s Island)

The scheme came together over a couple of months, and Team Trimoron hammered out the logistics. First was the challenge of getting the F-27 from Solomons, Maryland to Port Townsend, Washington. (That’s 2,877 miles, thank you Google maps!). Then there was getting her crew members from Maryland, Canada, and the UK to the US Pacific Northwest (PNW).

Then there was all the usual stuff–food, supplies, safety gear. Checking the stove and heater. Making sure the compostable head was fully stocked with cedar chips. Checking the boat for all-around seaworthiness.

That was the easy part.

The tricky part was figuring out some means of propulsion for the boat, other than sails.

The R2AK rule is simple: No motors. When the wind is blowing, a sailboat can sail. But in a dead calm (which happens frequently in the PNW), there has to be some way to move forward. Oars can work, but the F-27 is too big for them to be effective. The clear solution is a pedal drive. Vlad bought two, and mounted them on the F-27s’s amas (the arms that connect the outriggers to the hull).

Pedal drive (child model not included)

With that modification, the F-27 is ready to make the trip (or as ready as she’ll ever be). Vlad and Jeff leave for Port Townsend on Sunday, and if all goes well, they arrive June 1 or 2, and Chris will join them there.

My plan is to monitor the race from afar, and keep everyone apprised of team Trimoron’s efforts. Stay tuned!

Go team Trimoron!

*******

A note to readers: If you’re a regular reader of this blog and have gotten this far, you’re probably wondering a few things. Like maybe: “Who is this Vlad? What is Johna doing in Maryland? Where are the kayaks, and what’s up with the sailboat?”

I started a sort-of answer back in 2021, before getting sidetracked by life.

I still plan to finish that story
.


Sheltering at Sea, Part 3: Staten Island to Atlantic City

Moon over Atlantic City

Sunday, April 5, 2000 HR (8 PM)

It’s not too cold. I’m not wearing my wool cap, and my nose and hands are warm. I’m in the stern cabin. Through the thick plexiglass port I can see a blurry moon.

We’re starting our second night in Great Kills Harbor in Staten Island. We arrived midafternoon yesterday. To Vov’s delight, we were able to anchor in the same spot he’d kept Nemo. The mooring field is empty-ish; there were a few boats moored, but most haven’t come out of their winter quarters yet. We could see a few people in the spit of land surrounding the mooring field, but they were distant and far off.

We used the time to catch our breath, and do some basic housekeeping. Vov fished, and caught five shad. We boiled them and ate them with mayonnaise. They were delicious, despite the mouthful of bones.

Fishing in Staten Island

It was surreal watching Vlad fish within the borders of New York City. Technically we didn’t need to, of course. We had plenty of food.

But it was a sort of test-drive for times to come… as was our laundry routine. Today was sunny, and we hadn’t had the opportunity to wash clothes for a week before we launched. So we washed laundry on the wings of the boat, and hung the clothes up to dry. To wash, we used buckets filled with seawater and biodegradeable soap, with our limited freshwater reserved for the final rinse.

Vov also repaired the rudder on my kayak; he’d brought his tools and fiberglass repair kit along with. Not something I would have thought of!

Meanwhile, I curled in my tiny cabin and worked. The aft cabin isn’t large enough to stand up in, although I can sit up straight (with crossed legs) in the middle, on the cushion that covers the entire floor. Most of the time I brace myself with my back against one wall and my feet against the far wall, balancing the laptop against my knees. It’s more comfortable than it sounds, and Mully often likes to crouch in the cave under my knees.

Today Mully explored the boat a bit more. He also ate (and by all appearances, greatly enjoyed) the shad. Now he’s with me in bed, alternately sitting on me, walking over me, and perched in very unlikely positions on the slanting walls.

Vov is asleep already in the main cabin.

We haven’t really talked about where we’re headed next, other than that the next sheltered anchorage is Atlantic City, a 90-to-100 mile straight shot down the coast. Vov thinks it shouldn’t be too difficult to do all in one go with the right wind, which should arrive very early tomorrow morning (between one AM and three AM). That sounds grueling, but he’s up for it; and not so long ago, during the Everglades Challenge, we were both sailing through the night as a matter of course. So he’s gone to be bed early to catch a few hours of sleep.

We both have a strong strong sense of urgency to get down south.

Staten Island to Atlantic City

Partly it’s the weather, which can be variable this time of year. Supposedly we’re getting snow again in the northeast, and high winds are on the way.

Partly is that we we won’t be into a really comfortable harbor until we’re in the Chesapeake Bay. And partly it’s the same uncanny premonition that’s driven both of us since before we met, the feeling that something bad was going to happen, and we needed to be prepared. What, exactly, that “preparedness” entailed we were still discovering. But heading south seems to be part of it.

Mully is restless. I need to let him out a bit more. But not just yet….

It’s quiet except for the sound of tires. Someone is driving on the spit of land close by. And the whir of the air vent that sounds like crickets.

The boat rocks in someone’s wake. It’s the last thing I feel before falling asleep.

Staten Island Sunset

Tuesday April 7. 2138 HR (9:38 PM)

Sound of tiller scraping across hull, lines slapping gently against mast. Beautiful full moon rising over the water. Wind blowing in background.

Yesterday was difficult. We sailed 95 miles from Staten Island to Atlantic City. It was sunny and clear (ish) but cold, with chop. Vov woke up and and launched at 0230 HR. I couldn’t sleep much after we launched, so I got up and tried to work. That didn’t go so well. I felt seasick staring at the screen, so I abandoned the attempt and clambered into the cockpit to keep Vov company.

We arrived in Atlantic City around 1730 and moored. It had been an… exciting ride. We’d averaged between 6 and 7 knots due south, but gone faster over the water when you factored in the jibing. (Jibing is like tacking, except you do it downwind, not into the wind). When the trimaran heels, only two of its hulls are in the water; the other one slices through the air above the waves. And (I would later learn), jibing is the most dangerous type of sailing. So all in all, it was.. exciting.

Today we rested. I worked (depleted all the batteries!) while V napped, showered, and strategized about the trip. For dinner tonight we had sardines and “rice salad” : Garlic, onion, corn, dill, rice, and mayo. I’m calm. Not yet sleepy. I work until midnight, until my laptop runs out of juice.

Atlantic City Sunrise

Weds April 8 0900 HR (9:00 AM)

Cool, overcast, light wind. Preparing to take shower, out on the wings. There’s enough privacy where we are anchored. To shower, we will heat water on the stove, and pump it through the 1-gallon manual pressure sprayer.

This morning when I woke up, there was a feeling of sunshine in the world beyond. Even though it was gray and cold outside, it felt like the sun was rising somewhere.

I felt Mully warm and solid against my stomach, a warm weight between my ribs and hipbone. He sleeps inside the sleeping bag in the mornings. We plan to sail to Cape May today, then anchor for a few days to wait out the winds.

A strong storm front is coming; 50-knot winds are predicted. It will be my first storm at sea (on a sailboat at least.)

Mully and sky

Sheltering at Sea, Part 2: Escape from New York

Christina Rose (lower left, with sail) passing Manhattan. Photo by A.A.

We wake early.

So far, so good. Christina Rose had handled fine during the 7-mile Hudson crossing to Croton Point. We’d travelled at a speed of 8-10 knots, with a gusty, 20-kt wind. It was bouncy, but manageable.

Mully hadn’t enjoyed the trip.

He spent the crossing in his hull tunnel, a tunnel that ran about 10 feet from the stern cabin under one of the shelves in the main cabin. We couldn’t reach him there, but we could hear him (he would occasionally emit a quiet “miaow” in response to our frantic calling). He must have been cold and terrified, but after we anchored he crawled out and snuggled in the sleeping bag with me.

Now he’s sound asleep, and complains a little in his sleep when I try to pet him. The boat is creaking, with water sloshing around me. And the wind is alternately howling and huffing. The sky is gray and lowering, the water has ominous gray and white ripples.

But the barometer on my watch says the weather will soon improve…

Vov is doing something in the main cabin, I can hear him.

Moving carefully so as not to disturb Mully, I open one of the door panels and peer out.

Ah.

Vov’s dicing onions at the tiny sink. Breakfast will be potatoes with onions, bacon, and eggs.

The plan for today is to sail down the Hudson to Staten Island. Vov had an anchorage there, in Great Kills Harbor. It was where he’d kept his sailboat, Nemo, for many years. It was about 50 miles, a straight shot down the Hudson and New York Harbor.

The route. Today’s in yellow.

Then again, there was no guarantee we’d make it that far.

Was Christina Rose even seaworthy? She’d survived several nights in the water and the 7-mile crossing, but this would be her first real test.

And was it even legal to sail in New York, given the shutdown? Would we get stopped by the police? A few days before, the Coast Guard had issued a notification saying, effectively, that it would not be imposing any controls on boating traffic due to the pandemic. But New York City was, as promised, shutting down everything–including marinas, and so far as we knew, waterways.

If we made it… then what? We hadn’t really decided. The plan was to get out of the Northeast, but we hadn’t had much time to put more thought into it. We had friends in Maryland, Virginia, and North Carolina. And there was always Florida.

But for now, the goal was to get past New York.

After breakfast, around 7:30, we set off. It was gray, raw, and overcast. We huddled in the cockpit, sipping the coffee V had made.

Manhattan ho!


It was strange sailing down the route I’d paddled so often. Under the Tappan Zee, the George Washington in the distance. Even for a spring morning, the traffic was unnervingly absent. The radio was silent, only the occasional crackle of life.

When would I paddle this route again?

As we approached the George Washington bridge, a thought occurred to me. My friend A.A. lived in Hoboken, a few blocks from the river. On impulse, I called her.

She was repairing her air conditioner, but dropped everything when she heard we were headed downriver. We wouldn’t be able to stop and visit, but at least she would see us as we passed Manhattan.

And, as it so happened, document the event (see top photo). We were almost too far apart to recognize each other, but we waved frantically and shouted.

The goodbyes, we later agreed, felt strange and solemn and scary.

We’d sailed from Croton Point to the George Washington bridge, but after the bridge we put on the motor. The goal was to get out of New York waterways as quickly as possible, before the police stopped us.

Fortunately, that didn’t happen, although it was impossible to miss us. We were the only boat on the water, which was uncharacteristically calm, with a glassy ripple. I’d never seen the river so empty, even in the dead of winter.

The familiar landmarks slipped by. Then an unfamiliar white box shape caught my eye. It was the hospital ship, the USNS “Comfort”, docked at Pier 90, just a few blocks from one of my paddling “home ports”.

Hospital ship on the Hudson

It was an eerie, science-fictional feeling to glide past a military hospital ship docked in Manhattan. We had no idea how bad the pandemic would turn out to be, but if the authorities believed we needed a hospital ship… that wasn’t good.

We continued down the Hudson, past the Battery, past Governor’s Island. True to my watch’s barometric predictions, the weather had cleared and it was a warm, slightly gusty spring day. Once we were fully in New York Harbor we cut the motor and returned to sailing. Although we hadn’t arrived in Staten Island yet, we were past the most sensitive area. If the police were going to stop us anywhere, it would have been in the Hudson near Manhattan. That they didn’t was a good omen.

One that we hoped would last for the rest of the trip!

We made it! Under sail once more.