Tag Archives: New York

A Meditation on Gratitude

Vlad in his happy place (ca. 2011)

By Johna Till Johnson

“Vlad, what language are they speaking?” I asked. The young couple in the sick bay next to us were murmuring softly to each other in a language I couldn’t quite grasp. Germanic, I guessed, from the “ya’s” and “nein”’s.

“Yiddish,” he replied, and it suddenly all made sense: Orthodox. From what I could glimpse through the fluttering curtain separating her bed from Vlad’s, the woman was young—no more than early 20s–and conservatively dressed in a long dark skirt and blouse.  I hadn’t been able to see him, just a glimpse of dark clothing and a warm, low-pitched voice.

She’d arrived around five AM. We were awakened by her screams—desperate wails of pain that didn’t sound like they came from an adult, sentient, human.  At first I thought it was a child, or someone suffering from dementia. But in between the screams, she begged coherently for pain medication.

It must have arrived eventually, because she quieted. Then I heard her say, in a normal voice, evidently to a nurse, “I’m sorry. I’m not usually such a bad patient. But the pain was so bad…”

I wondered briefly what was wrong with her. And in a more mercenary vein, I wondered if there was a way to get a chair such as the one her husband was sitting on, on their side of the curtain.

It was early in the morning on Thursday, November 6th. We’d arrived in the emergency room the night before, at the urgent request of one of Vlad’s oncology nurses.

I had been sitting in the living room, digging through a pint of ice cream in lieu of dinner.  It had been a long day, and I was exhausted. I was just waiting for Vlad to finish his dinner so I could give him his shot and get some sleep.

I heard the phone ring, and Vlad pick up. He started talking to the person at the other end, and my ears pricked up—we didn’t get many phone calls at 9 PM; usually they were automated reminders of appointments.

“High levels of potassium,” I heard. Immediately I put the container of ice cream down and ran into the bedroom, where I listened in.

The urgency in the nurse’s voice was palpable. Vlad had had his blood test that morning, to confirm he was ready to re-initiate chemo on the upcoming Monday. We already knew some of the results, because we’d visited his GP immediately afterwards, and she’d delivered the happy news that his blood hemoglobin was on the rise.

But now something was wrong, very wrong. High potassium levels, we gathered from the nurse, was a sign of potential kidney failure. Worse, they could trigger an immediate and fatal heart attack.

“You have to go to the emergency room immediately,” Paola said. “We’ll figure out what’s causing it, but we have to bring those levels down right away.  You don’t have to go to our emergency room (Mt. Sinai’s). You can go to the local one.”

“Mt. Sinai is local to us,” Vlad said with a chuckle. “We live just 10 blocks away.”

“OK,” she said, stressing again that we had to go immediately. She said the doctor would “blue-slip” Vlad’s admission, to cut through the red tape at triage and make sure he was treated right away.

I quickly packed a small bag, annoyed at myself for not having a checklist for trips to the emergency room. After all, it was our third visit in two months—we should have the drill down by now.

What to bring? Food? Pillows? I settled on extra sweaters (it was a warm night, but it’s always cold in emergency rooms), laptop, phones, and some books. (Later I built out that checklist—other things to include are blankets, snacks, water, eyeshades and noise-cancelling headphones).  Then I quickly brushed my teeth to remove the ice-cream scum.  It might be a while before I could brush them again. The nurse had said we’d be in the ER for a few hours at least.

It turned out to be a lot longer.

We arrived around 9:15, and true to Paola’s promise, made it through triage in record time. Soon we were sitting in a row of chairs inside the ER proper, waiting to be seen.

Or rather, Vlad was sitting. I was standing, because there was no room to sit. In fact, there was no room anywhere. Every bay was full, and gurneys packed the aisles.  Even the chairs were full—Vlad snagged the last one.

A nurse came to redo the blood test (since there was a possibility the first one had been mistaken—blood-potassium tests can be somewhat unreliable). She took the blood away and we waited for 45 minutes, maybe an hour.

I spent the time searching online for high potassium causes and treatments, and discovered some intriguing information that I wanted to ask the doctor about. But …where was the doctor? Vlad had been there almost an hour, and nobody had come by to see him, other than the nurse who drew blood. The oncology nurse had stressed that he needed to be seen urgently, yet nothing was happening!

I went off in search of a white lab coat. Fortunately, the doctor came over immediately and apologized for the oversight, explaining that the ER was particularly chaotic that night.

We discussed the situation. The doctor confirmed the potassium was still high, and then said,  “The thing is, we don’t know what’s causing the high potassium.”

“Could it be the lisinopril?” I asked, based on my web research. I was referring to Vlad’s blood pressure medication. One of the rarer side effects was an impact on kidney function. The doctor’s eyes lit up, “Good call,” he said.  “It very well could be.” Fortunately, Vlad had stopped taking that medication already—with the approval of his GP—so if it were the cause, he should be getting better soon.

But that was a discussion for later. For now, the plan was to get IV saline infusions to bring the potassium levels down to a non-life-threatening level. One of the nurses brought over a pole with an IV drip, and the infusions began.

The problem was, the ER was so crowded that there was still a wait for a gurney.

As we waited, one man in particular caught our eye. He was tall and burly, with graying hair and blue eyes. He wore blue scrubs indicating he was one of the support and operations staff, but carried himself confidently and had a calm and steadying manner with the patients as he delivered oxygen tanks and answered their questions.

After a while we noticed that the other staff—even, occasionally, doctors and nurses—seemed to rely on him to know what was going on, and even defer to him occasionally.

“He seems like he’s running the place,” Vlad commented. And indeed he did, possibly because he was older than the mostly-30ish staff.

“Where do you think his accent’s from?” Vlad asked me rhetorically, because it was obvious: “Russia,” I said promptly.

Sure enough, when the man stopped by to let us know a gurney was on the way, he inquired about Vlad’s name and background. Vlad reciprocated, and it turned out that the man–whose name was Sergei—had been born in Ukraine when it was still part of Russia.  

“He was probably a doctor back in Russia,” I said, half-jokingly. “Could very well be,” Vlad replied in all seriousness, noting that he’d had a laboratory tech with advanced degrees back in Russia. Because the United States didn’t recognize the Russian medical system, people who came over in the 1980s and 1990s often ended up working in jobs adjacent to their original professions, but at a much lower level.

Former doctor or no, Sergei became our guardian angel for the next few hours. Once he located the gurney, he suggested I stand guard over it while Vlad went to the bathroom, because the gurneys were in high demand.  And he would wander over to check on us every now and then.

Initially, while we waited for a bay to come free, the gurney was in a row of four lined up on the open floor of the ER. There were very few chairs, and no room for one anyway, so I sat on a corner of Vlad’s bed. We both had books, but little desire to read, so we passed the time by watching the controlled chaos of the ER.

By around 2 AM, one of the bays came free, and we were happy to note that it was a “corner” bay, meaning that there was a wall on one side, instead of curtains on both. Definitely top ER real estate!  Sergei wheeled the gurney in, and moved the IV.

We were settled in our new home—though we had no idea how long we’d be there. The doctors had indicated that if the tests showed Vlad’s blood potassium was coming down, he’d be discharged to go home.  If it wasn’t, he’d be admitted to the hospital. And who knew what would happen after that? I tried not to think about the possibilities—kidney damage, dialysis, wait-listed for a transplant…

“Maybe the third time will be a charm,” I said. The last two times we’d gone to the ER, we’d gotten bad news: First, Vlad’s cancer diagnosis, and second, emergency surgery for a ruptured intestine. Maybe this would be the time we’d escape relatively unscathed.

At any rate, there wasn’t much else to do, and noplace to sit. So I crawled onto the gurney beside Vlad, and we both fell asleep.

We were awakened a few hours later by the frantic screams of the young Orthodox woman in the bay next to us.  Fortunately (for her far more than for us) the pain medication seemed to work, and the screams were replaced by her soft murmurs in Yiddish. Once we figured out the accent, we both drifted back off to sleep.

We woke again a few hours later, when Vlad’s doctors arrived. The news was good, but not great: Vlad’s blood levels had improved, but not enough for them to send him home.

“We’re admitting you,” the doctor said flatly, meaning to the hospital.

 Vlad’s face fell, and I realized how much we’d both been counting on being allowed to go home in the morning. But at least they didn’t seem to think the kidneys were permanently damaged.

There was yet another twist as I discovered after venturing out for breakfast. I wasn’t sure I’d have enough time to eat before he was moved to a hospital room, so I checked with the nurses. One rolled her eyes at the question. “You won’t be going anywhere soon, honey,” she said. “The wait for a hospital bed is 24 to 48 hours.”

One to two days?! Well, that certainly left me enough time for breakfast!

So I went down to the cafeteria and savored some quiche and sausages, and best of all, strong hot coffee. (The Mt. Sinai cafeteria is actually surprisingly good, with a wide variety of fresh food.)

Back at Vlad’s bedside, I noticed the young couple next to us was gone—temporarily, it appeared, as their belongings were still on the bed. The chair I’d noticed earlier now stood empty against the wall.

I sat down right away, and plugged in my laptop to the power strip along the wall. As the morning progressed, I read and Vlad alternately read and dozed, as the saline solution continued to course into his arm.

The young couple reappeared, and I stood up. “Here’s your chair back,” I said to the man. Like many Orthodox men, he appeared both younger and older than he probably was, his fresh, unlined face and gentle eyes a contrast to his severe clothing and erect posture.  He could have been as old as 30, or as young as 20.


“No, no,” he demurred. “You keep it.”

“No, it’s yours,” I insisted.

“We will share,” he said firmly, and gestured to me to sit down again.

So I sat back down and read for a while. Then Vlad announced he was hungry.

This was a positive sign! Vlad’s appetite had been returning slowly since the surgery, but the rate of increase appeared to be accelerating.

He’d eaten breakfast—both our breakfasts, actually—a few hours before, when an orderly delivered two sealed boxes each containing a dry sandwich, water, and an apple. (I was amused to note that the seal indicated the contents were kosher.)

No lunch appeared to be forthcoming (I found out later why). So I suggested that I pick up some lunch for us both from the cafeteria.

We shared a picnic of fried chicken and salad (for me) and sandwich, pudding, and juice (for him) on the hospital bed.  Then we had a long afternoon of reading and dozing, with the curtains closed. “It’s like being in a tent,” Vlad commented.  And in a way, it was—urban camping. But instead of the dramatic forces of nature, we were surrounded by human drama.

The young couple next door once again left for tests, and returned. The young man repossessed the chair while I napped, chatting with his wife in Yiddish. The sound was strangely peaceful and lulling.  

Then the doctors came by for a discussion, which of course was in English.  I couldn’t help but overhear, since they were inches away, separated only by a cloth curtain.

They asked her if she’d ever had surgery. “I had two ceasarians,” she said in her gently accented English, with an unmistakable note of pride.

So young! I thought, and wondered who was caring for the children. They couldn’t possibly be very old.

Then they explained her condition: kidney stones. Just the thought made me wince.  The pain was terrible, but they had medication for it. Hopefully she wouldn’t end up in such horrible pain again.

And then they said the magic words: “We’ll be sending you home later today!” My heart leapt with happiness for them.

“Oh good,” the man said.  “Do you know when?”

“It usually takes a little time to process the discharge papers,” the doctor said.  (That, we would find out, would turn out to be the understatement of the year.)

“I see,” the man replied. “I am hoping… we are hoping… we have a wedding to go to tonight.”

Everyone chuckled. “We’ll do our best,” the doctor said. I thought of the joy of a Jewish wedding (I’ve been to a few, though never Orthodox) and hoped the young couple would be able to make it.

They stayed for a surprisingly long time. At one point, when the young man was gone, I was returning to Vlad’s gurney and saw her sitting up in bed. “I hear you’re going home,” I said.

“Yes,” she replied, with a radiant smile.

I smiled back. “I’m so happy for you.”

“Thank you!”

It felt good to have a connection with her, and with her husband who so decently shared the chair (and who despite my many urgings, never once asked to use it when I was in it).

Dinner was another “hospital picnic” from the cafeteria. The young couple departed, and the bay was left empty for a while, to be replaced by a large Hispanic family. The rules dictated one visitor per bed, but the staff tended to look the other way, and this patient had at least two or three visitors, chattering away animatedly in Spanish.

 I dozed for a bit. The curtains were closed, and the background noise from the ER floor was loud: Machines beeping, people talking, patients moaning. But over all of it, I could hear someone speaking rhythmically. A man’s voice, deep and gravelly. Reciting something, it seemed. The accent was pure New York, but the cadence was strangely familiar.

“As it was in the beginning… is now and ever shall be… world without end, Amen.”

It was the Glory Be, I realized. One of the canonical Catholic prayers, often recited as part of the Rosary. And sure enough, the man moved on to the Our Father and the Hail Mary.  I’d heard those prayers thousands of times in my childhood.

I found myself reciting silently along with him, the words and phrases appearing as if by themselves on my lips. And then I drifted off to sleep again…

I was awakened by the arrival of Vlad’s night nurse, Leilani, a slight, ebullient young Filipina with a kind demeanor. She introduced herself, changed his saline solution, and said she’d return in a bit to check on him.

Sergei reappeared, too, on his second twelve-hour shift. “You guys still here?” he asked incredulously. We nodded. “You are the most patient man in the world,” he said to Vlad.

He was right—patience is one of Vlad’s strong suits—but there didn’t seem to be anything else to do.  Complaining wouldn’t get him a hospital room that didn’t exist, and he was getting the treatment he needed. Plus, he wasn’t in pain—in fact, he was feeling better than at anytime since the surgery.

The evening wore on, and even Sergei acknowledged he was tired. On a rare break in his duties, he leaned on a stool and chatted with us. He’d only gotten an hour or two of sleep himself, thanks to a busy schedule and the gridlocked traffic outside.

Then Leilani appeared. “You should go home and get some sleep,” she said to me. My friends had been urging the same thing, via email.

But I worried that if Vlad were moved to a hospital bed during the night, I wouldn’t be able to find him. So Leilani kindly gave me the ER main desk phone number to call if I needed to know where Vlad was.

Of course, Vlad had his phone with him and could easily send me email if he was moved—in my sleepy state, I’d forgotten that. At any rate, I took everyeone’s advice and went back to the apartment for a few hours of restful sleep.

I set the alarm for 6 AM but surprised myself by waking up a few minutes early. There was an email from Vlad, sent moments ago: “Surreal night… going to draw blood soon… latest I heard, if potassium and creatinine are lower, I can go home… but we’ll see…”

“Surreal?” That sounded interesting. 

I showered, made coffee, and packed up, optimistically packing Vlad’s new boots (which had arrived the day before) in the hopes that he’d be released soon.   One of his feet had been a bit floppy after the surgery, and the physical therapist had suggested wearing ankle boots to stabilize it.

Vlad also said he was hungry, so I brought cheese, crackers, yogurt and juice (remembering the dry breakfast of the day before). And, come to think of it, that had been the last food they offered us in the ER….

After Vlad had finished breakfast, he told me the story. Apparently it was a good idea that I’d gone home, because the ER had gotten even more chaotic overnight, and Vlad had gotten very little sleep.

At one point, he woke up to the rolling cadences of a southern-accented sermon. One of the patients, a black man who said he was a preacher, had launched into a sermon about Aaaron and Moses, in traditional call-and-response style.

 It was surprisingly good, Vlad said, and the ER “congregation” had listened approvingly, even the doctors and nurses.  

There were a few other stories, but that was the best one. I thought about the ever-changing range of cultures and religions packed into that room: Eastern European, Hispanic, Filipino, Orthodox, Catholic, Evangelical…

Overnight, the Hispanic family had left, and the bay next to ours had been occupied by an elderly black woman. She occasionally moaned in pain, and seemed a bit disoriented. Poignantly, there was no one beside her.  

She was neatly dressed, with strikingly well-cared-for nails in a becoming coral color. And she returned my smiles as I came and went, though we didn’t speak.

I was sitting beside Vlad reading when I heard a doctor come by. He was young, male, and obviously trying to be kind. But he clearly didn’t understand human dynamics.

“Do you have any family?” he asked the woman. I couldn’t hear her reply.

“Daughters, sons, brothers, sisters… Is there anyone with you?” he asked again.

Ask her who does her nails, I thought. They had clearly been done with love and attention. She seemed both too ill to have done them herself, and too frugal to pay for a professional manicure.  Find out who did her nails, I thought, and you’d find out who was standing in as “next of kin”.

But that detail evidently escaped the doctor, who was growing frustrated. Finally he just broke the news he’d come to deliver: “That leg is looking very bad. It’s going to have to come off. Do you hear me? We are going to have to amputate.”

My heart stopped, and Vlad and I looked at each other with shock. Vlad’s eyes crinkled with empathy.  “Probably cancer,” he whispered. “Or diabetes,” I said.  He nodded. We both winced. What a horrible way to find out: alone and in the ER. The only saving grace was that it wasn’t clear whether or not the woman understood him.

That wasn’t the only down note of the day. We’d been in the ER nearly 36 hours by this point, and the mood seemed to have grown bleaker somehow. More patients were moaning or screaming in pain—or at least it seemed that way to me. The staff was as attentive as possible, but the constant onslaught of human misery was draining.  One woman asked me for pain medication. I explained I was just a visitor, but she begged me to call a nurse, so I did—thinking all the while how difficult it must be to be bedridden, in pain, and alone.

I was happy to note that a visitor had finally arrived for the woman in the bay next to us: A young black woman, very poised, with an ethereal sense of calm. I couldn’t figure out her relationship to the older woman, but I was gratified by her first question: “Who did your nails?”

“See?!” I said triumphantly to Vlad. “She gets it!”

Her presence evidently soothed the older woman, who started speaking more coherently and animatedly than she had in hours. I wondered again if she understood about the amputation.

I was just about to get some breakfast when Vlad’s medical team appeared, with joyful news: He was to be released. Although his potassium was still a bit high, the kidneys were functioning normally. He would need to keep drinking water and get another blood test before the chemo, but otherwise he was fine. All they had to do was submit the paperwork.

This was great news. It was almost 10, and I figured we’d be out of there in 30 minutes. An hour at the outside.

“It might be longer than that,” Vlad warned, reminding me of the conversation with the Orthodox couple. “I can’t see why,” I retorted.

I soon learned, and began to understand something about the medical system that was, well, surreal.

After a half hour of waiting, I went to check with the discharge team to see what was going on. They told me they couldn’t discharge him without discharge paperwork. And nobody in the ER could issue that paperwork!

Apparently, once Vlad had been “admitted” to the hospital the day before, he was no longer the responsibility of the ER medical team. Although he was physically present in the ER, his care was the responsibility of his regular doctors. That’s why we hadn’t been offered meals—we weren’t the ER’s responsibility (though a few kind nurses checked in to make sure we were eating).

And the ER doctors couldn’t submit the paperwork to release him. That had to come from his own medical team—which had gone back to their rounds, believing that he was already released.

We were in limbo. And for the first time, I began to get frustrated. Mt. Sinai had a highly sophisticated online medical records system—yet they couldn’t discharge him unless a physical doctor physically showed up?

His doctors were off caring for patients—why should they have to come back just to issue some paperwork?

One of the ER doctors stopped by, just to check in.

I now knew that he could do nothing, but told him the situation anyway. He asked Vlad’s daytime nurse—a young blonde woman named Laura—to page his medical team. She’d already done so, it turned out, repeatedly. With no answer.

Another hour drew by.  I checked with the nurse. Still no response. By now it was 11:30.

“That’s it, we’re leaving.”  I said. “I have work to do, and this is ridiculous. We’ll leave now, and they can sort out their paperwork later.”

“No,” Vlad retorted angrily. “You leave. I’ll stay.”

“I don’t have time for this, and neither do you. We will do whatever they tell us if it’s a matter of medical treatment.  But I’m not going to sit around here while you’re not getting treatment, and should have been home, just for a bureaucratic snafu.”

We finally agreed that I’d walk over to his doctor’s offices, just a half-block away, and see if there was anything they could do.

Vlad’s doctors were as surprised as I was.  They thought we’d have been long gone from the ER, and said they hadn’t gotten any pages. Apparently there had been a communications gap between the ER and the physician’s assistant who was supposed to handle the paperwork. They volunteered to page her for me, and I headed back to the ER.

Whether coincidentally or not, she arrived a moment or two after I did—bearing the precious discharge papers. She apologized, and reiterated that she’d had no idea that he wasn’t going to be discharged immediately after she left.  She said she’d gotten no pages until the last one from the doctor’s office.

No matter. We were finally on our way.

And at 12:15 PM on Friday—39 hours after we’d entered, and nearly three hours after we’d been told we could go—we stepped out into the bright fall sunshine.

On the short cab ride home, I thought of all the people whose lives had crossed ours, and whose stories we’d been part of.

We hadn’t had a chance to say goodbye to Sergei, whose second shift had ended at 7 AM. I hoped he’d gotten some rest. The young Orthodox couple—had they made it to their wedding? The older black lady… I hoped someone was there to hold her hand when she woke up from anesthesia to discover she no longer had a leg. And the people whose faces we never saw, the man who recited the Catholic prayers and the preacher…

“I really hope we never have to go back there,” I said to Vlad. Three times in two months was more than enough for a while, and 40 hours in the ER had to be approaching some kind of record.

On further reflection, though, I realized the third time was a charm. We hadn’t gotten any life-changing diagnoses. And we couldn’t honestly say it was a bad experience. It wasn’t one we’d have chosen to have, or anything we’d like to repeat.

But for almost 40 hours, we’d been plugged into the lives of people—ourselves included—who were grappling with the fundamentals of human experience: pain, fear, faith, empathy, kindness. It left us feeling tired—exhausted—but also strangely alive.

Back at home, we were grateful to the point of tears for the little things: a comfortable bed, quiet environment, enthusiastic colleagues, and the generosity of friends who went above and beyond to deliver dinner (after we’d abruptly cancelled a planned visit).  Ordinary life suddenly seemed bigger, brighter, and more satisfying than we’d realized.

Solo Trip to the Yellow Submarine

Sky of blue and sea of green….

By Johna Till Johnson

It’s May 26, 2020, and the world has changed. So I got to wondering what I was up to last year at this time. By good fortune, I have the photographic record: A solo kayak trip to the yellow submarine in Brooklyn, almost a year ago to the day.

I hadn’t been for almost four years; the last trip was with Vlad in October 2015. (Many links to the history of the yellow submarine appear there.)

The 2019 trip marked a milestone for me, though I didn’t really think of it at the time; I’d begun to embrace my new identity as a solo expedition paddler. It’s a longer, more ambitious trip when launching from Pier 84, the home of Manhattan Kayak Company, than it was from New York Kayak at Pier 40. And of course, it’s always more ambitious to go solo.

The rural-industrial mix of Coney Island Creek

I remember meeting up with a young father and his seven (!) children on the beach at Kaiser Park;  we chatted for a while and I praised his parenting skills… it’s not easy to manage a brood that size, with the smallest in diapers and the oldest burly pre-teens.

Then I continued on down Coney Island Creek; for whatever reason, Vlad and I had never previously explored its full length. It’s a strange combination of bucolic and industrial: Lush greenery sliced through with a subway track, and blocky apartments looming in the background.

The current had turned against me, so it was time to go. The sun was low in the sky as I crossed the anchorage, and the dramatic skylines of Manhattan and Jersey City hove into view.

It seems so long ago now… another world!

Manhattan and Jersey City skylines… seems so long ago and far away

Of Art and Beauty

Spring on 5th Avenue

By Johna Till Johnson
Photo by Vladimir Brezina

Why should anyone make art?

I’m sitting on the window seat on a blue-and-gold morning, sipping coffee. The breeze is warm, and there’s the sound of chirping birds competing with the blare of horns outside.

My glance runs up and down the potted ficus on the windowsill. There are new furled leaves waiting to bloom. It is spring.

What’s the point of art, and why should anyone devote his or her life to it, let alone squander precious hours of the few we’re all given?

Pondering the question, I realize I’ve unconsciously internalized a set of ideas: Art is frivolous, unimportant. Beauty is nice, but not necessary. Proper adults concern themselves with more important things.

But those are just ideas.

As I look around, reality seems to be otherwise.

I’m surrounded by beauty: The green-gold leaves of the ficus as they catch the sunlight. The geometric play of shadows on buildings. The lush greenery of the new foliage outside, sharp against the sky.

The world is beautiful, I realize. Nature is beautiful. And cities are beautiful, in their own terrible, savage, and dirty ways.

Humans are part of nature, and if Nature strives for beauty, shouldn’t humans? Isn’t the ache for beauty foundational somehow, built into our very cells?

There isn’t just one form of beauty. There’s an infinite variety, depending on how you look at things. Anything can be beautiful, from the rainbows on an oil slick to the multi-jointed machinery of an insect.

I think about Vlad, and his feelings about ants.

He hated the idea of killing them, not out of a reverence for life, but out of a reverence for beauty and the deep sense that we should conserve beauty wherever possible. “It’s just such a waste,” he said, in explanation. “That entire little intricate system (the ant) wiped out in an instant.”

If art is a deep-seated desire to reach for beauty, and Nature and the Universe is constantly creating beauty… then isn’t the desire to create art a way to align with the deepest forces of Nature and the Universe?

I feel a bubble of hope rising in my chest. Maybe creating art isn’t frivolous at all, but rather a way to authentically align with Nature…

But wait. Isn’t “beauty” just a human-made construct? Would the leaves of the ficus, or the rainbows in an oil slick, be beautiful if I weren’t here to see them, and declare them so?

The bubble begins to deflate.

If beauty is just a human construct, then the creation art is just another one of those activities we humans impose on ourselves to feel purposeful and to feed our egos…

Belief in beauty is a bit like belief in God, I realize. You posit that an idea greater than yourself exists and gives meaning, and search for evidence that it exists.

And then I remember something: The nine-year-old autistic boy who let out an audible “wow!” at the end of a Mozart concert.

David Snead, President of the Handel and Haydn society described it like this: “While [conductor] Harry Christophers was holding the audience rapt in pin-drop silence following the music’s end, what sounded like a child of about six years of age couldn’t hold back and gave out a ‘Wow!’ heard round the hall,” Snead wrote. “The crowd cheered in enthusiastic agreement.

The boy, Ronan Mattin, apparently didn’t normally communicate his emotions, according to his grandfather, Stephen Mattin, who took him to the concert: “I can count on one hand the number of times that [he’s] spontaneously ever come out with some expression of how he’s feeling.

If a nine-year-old boy whose mind and emotions are wired differently from most people’s can perceive the beauty in Mozart, isn’t that proof that it objectively exists?

Not proof, perhaps, but evidence, I correct myself.

And there is plenty of additional evidence, if you know where to look for it. By some accounts, plants can perceive and respond to music. And humans and animals alike respond to certain sounds and shapes, even across cultures. Physicists talk about using “elegance” as a good metric for assessing which theories are more likely to be true.

I think about how closely beauty and the impulse towards spirituality are linked in history. Why does the “love of God” inspire people to create, say, the Cathedral of Notre Dame?

And the suspicion grows on me, not for the first time: What if I’ve gotten everything exactly backward? What if art and the creation of beauty aren’t just nice incidentals, but the most important thing? I think of Tosca’s plaintive aria: “I lived for art, I lived for love.” Was she right?

I circle back to the question of why anyone should create art.

Because we’re hard-wired for it. Nature creates beauty, and humans are part of Nature. It’s what we do. And when we’re prevented from it (or prevent ourselves from it), our lives are constricted and constrained. Creating beauty (however we conceive of it) is part of living fully.

The bubble of hope is very large and light now. It feels almost large enough to carry me.

Trip 14: Combined Circumnavigation of Manhattan and City Island

By Vladimir Brezina

The iconic Manhattan view

Saturday, 25 March, 2000

(Note: The prosaic title does not do this trip justice! City Island is a small island in Long Island Sound; just getting there and back from Manhattan is considered an achievement by most New York-area paddlers. A Manhattan circumnavigation is a little more common—most of us have done quite a few—but still a non-trivial paddle.

But combining them both…? I wonder, from this vantage point of almost 20 years, what inspired Vlad to take this trip, after the previous runs up and down the Hudson. If I were able to go back in time and ask him, how would he have answered?) 

Combined Manhattan and City Island circumnavigation

Launched at Dyckman St. around 6:45 a.m. Low tide: wading through horrible mud, careful launch between pilings under pier. Sunshine already lighting up Palisades, but sun dimmed periodically by thin clouds. Quite warm: later, high around 60° F.

Paddled south with ebb current, against slight head wind from the southwest. Under George Washington Bridge, past 79th St. Boat Basin, Chelsea Piers; Downtown Boathouse in about 1 1/2 hours. (Note: This is very fast). Very few boats. Round the Battery; tourists already waiting for Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island boats; in a few minutes saw three of them emerging from their dock in East River.

Up the East River; waves from two of the tourist boats and a tug bounced around and built to about 3 ft. in the triable between the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges. Under the Williamsburg Bridge; hazy sunshine. Now going with the wind and strong current. Out of the muddy Hudson, water now very clear. Just south of the United Nations narrowly avoided seaplane taking off, and later, almost at Roosevelt Island, landing. (Note: That seaplane will appear later in our writeups; nearly two decades on, I still encounter it regularly on the East River!)

Air traffic in the East River

Took the east channel past Roosevelt Island. Current dramatically speeding up. Through Hell Gate: water quite flat (no boat wakes) but heavy swirls. Still with the current and wind, past Rikers Island, under the Bronx-Whitestone Bridge and the Throgs Neck Bridge. Reached Throgs Neck at around 11:15 a.m.: 4 1/2 hours for about 25 (?) nm. (Note: That’s a blistering pace, 5.6 knots, or 6.4 miles per hour!)

Past Throgs Neck lost favorable current, in fact now some contrary current. Good view of Stepping Stones lighthouse. Crossed Eastchester Bay over to City Island and around the east side. Water beautifully clear, blue and green. Some intermittent sun, but increasing clouds. Strong contrary current flowing south between islands. Lunch on small island with tall transmitter just off City Island. Two huge white swans looking at me suspiciously. Beach littered with oyster shells. Inviting view east among the islands, past the Execution Rocks lighthouse, out on to the open Long Island Sound.

After lunch, round the northern tip of City Island, under bridge connecting it to mainland, and south through Eastchester Bay. Now paddling with some tail current, but opposed by head wind, now building up to 10-15 knots. Whitecaps everywhere in main channel. Slow going. Back to Throgs Neck again at about 2 p. m. Turning toward manhattan, beam to the wind. Severe weathercocking: boat not balanced. Crossed over to the south shore and landed to take on water ballast (not much, but perhaps some, effect). Starting to rain; misty views of Manhattan. Back under Bronx-Whitestone Bridge, past LaGuardia and Rikers Island. Still slow going, partly against, and still weathercockng into, the wind. Speeding up with favorable current toward Hell Gate. Sun coming out again. Through Hell Gate easily around 4 p.m.

Orange sun setting into Palisades

Through Harlem River, sun low in the sky, wind dying down, water smooth. Rapid smooth progress with good tail current. Emerged into Hudson again just as the orange sun was disappearing behind Palisades. Hudson hazy and calm. Back at Dyckman St. just after 6 p.m.

Paddling time around 11 hours; about 50 nm.

(Vlad’s humorous, gentle sensibility emerges so clearly from this entry: The “huge” swans look at him “suspiciously”; the “inviting view” looking out across Long Island Sound; and the “orange sun disappearing behind the Palisades”.

Perhaps I’ve answered my own question: Vlad was forever in search of new beauty to delight his eye and heart.)

Trip 4: Hudson River, Hudson-Coxsackie Area, October 1999

Text and photos by Vladimir Brezina

Dawn at Stockport Middle Ground

Friday, 15 October

7:10 a.m. Amtrak to Hudson. Emerged from Penn Station tunnels just after sunrise; views across the Hudson with the rising sun reflected orange, against the clear blue sky, from windows on the New Jersey shore. Beautiful views of the river all the way up to Hudson: fall foliage colors spectacular particularly in the Hudson Highlands; in many places mist rising from the river, with the sun breaking through in dappled patches. Worth the $31 fare just for those two hours. Launched at Hudson around 10 a.m.

Day 1 Route

Sunny, but distinctly cooler now: crisp fall weather. Water warmer than expected: still possible, mostly, to do without gloves. Southerly wind, ebbing current, quite strong here. Decided to go south along the western shore, photographing the fall colors. Past entrance to Catskill Creek. Large, three-masted replica of an 18th-century (?) sailing ship (couldn’t read name) but with sails furled, motoring, a bit disappointingly, north against the current.

Also a fleet of canoes, probably returning to Catskill from Ramshorn Creek. Paddled slowly up Ramshorn Creek for a while. Very still, winding creek, with muddy banks at low tide; sun behind the screen of leaves, now partially bare. Leaves dropping and floating down on the current.

Then back out into the river and across to the usual lunch place at the mouth of the Roeliff Jansen Kill. South wind now around 20 knots; lots of whitecaps in the main channel. But water around lunch place too shallow just now, so retreated north to Oak Hill Landing for lunch. Fall views of the Catskills.

Fall colors

Then north through Hallenbeck Creek back to Hudson. Arrived at the same time as a duck hunter in camouflage outfit, with camouflaged boat, and vigorous complaints against the game laws. (Saw a few other hunters, and many duck blinds everywhere, but almost none occupied. Relieved to hear only very scattered shots.) Phoned Kathy around 4 p.m. Outlook for joining me tomorrow not good.

(Note: It’s very like Vlad to record the hunter’s “vigorous complaints against the game laws”.  He was not a hunter himself, and throughout these logs, hunters emerge as faintly comic characters, in their obsession with camouflage and other para-military gear, which Vlad found amusing. But he also had striking libertarian, if not downright anarchic, tendencies, and would have sympathized with those complaints. )

Current now turned to flood; wind still from the south, though dying down. Evening paddle up to campground at the north tip of Stockport Middle Ground. Halfway up saw, from a distance, a fox (coyote?)-like animal on shore. Arrived at campground just in time to see huge freighter move down the channel to the west against the setting sun.

Night not too cold, probably around 40°F.  New North Face sleeping bag luxuriously comfortable and warm.

Sunset at Stockport

(Note: It’s about time! The last few trips Vlad has been complaining about the inadequacy of his sleeping bag. It’s fun to watch him grow increasingly interested in kayaking and expedition gear; he was always mechanically minded, but generally appreciated gear for its effectiveness and the quality of its design rather than for the status it might convey.

By the time I knew him, he’d arrived at a gear collection that worked for him, and was less enchanted by every new item. He looked tolerantly on as I went through my own trajectory of fascination with gear.

It was very common for me to remark “I wish I had a gadget that would do (whatever)”… and for Vlad to reply, “I have one of those.” He’d rummage in his overstuffed deck bag (how he ever found anything was a mystery to me!) and pull out a rusty, but still serviceable, whatever-it-was.

Several log posts later we’ll get to read about his discovery of the GPS, and the way it can be useful in tracking one’s speed in different conditions.  That, in turn, leads to a deep understanding of the currents and how they vary—which lies at the heart of Vlad’s legendary knowledge of the NY area currents.)

Saturday, 16 October
Sunrise around 7 a.m. A little chilly, but clothes adequate. Took some pictures of the rising sun illuminating the fall colors on the western bank opposite. Left around 9 a.m., reached Coxsackie around 10 a.m. Very happy to see, from afar, John and Kathy putting their boat together. Sneaked up on them out of the rising sun, got out of the boat and came right up to them without being detected.

Coxsackie very nice launch site: the paved boat ramp (though no floating dock visible), grass, plenty of parking, portable toilets, phone.

Day 2 Route

North around Coxsackie Island, then across main channel over to eastern shore, south past Nutten Hook, into marshes on either side of Little Nutten Hook. Few herons wading in the shallows, but generally many fewer birds than a couple of weeks ago. Palisade of trees lining the river almost wintery; foliage past its peak, or it may be that the natural tree species here not very flamboyant, just yellow and grey-brown. (Oranges and reds noticeable mainly around houses, probably planted.)

Main river now ebbing but south wind intensifying to a sustained 20 knots.

Waves building to 2 feet in the main channel; we kept to the side but could not get out of the wind. Kathy complained but sticking it out. Lunch at deluxe campground at Gays Point. Dock now out of the water, but there is a sandy beach, grassy area, pagoda, picnic tables, barbecues, outhouses (open), a building (closed) which may have water in season. But all this open to the south wind, so had lunch in sunny and warm clearing in the wood beyond.

Displaced a sunning snake.

Few grasshoppers and butterflies, but insects, like birds, mostly gone. Returning to the boats, we could see wind now 25 knots, treetops swaying and whistling, waves in main channel lengthening, with prominent and very frequent whitecaps.

Continued south past the beaches at the tip of Gays Point and into the channel to the east of Stockport Middle Ground. Somewhat sheltered for a while, then back out into the headwind for the last stretch across the flats to the entrance to Stockport Creek. Here very shallow; ran aground before found proper channel. Four other kayakers, disappearing into the creek. Creek sheltered, but shallow, and with strong current flowing out of it.

Finally, back the same way past Stockport Middle Ground, across the main channel and along the western shore back to Coxsackie. Current now turning to flood; wind dying down somewhat but still strong. Not as rough as it would have been before; waves no more than 2 feet. Moving very fast with the tail wind and current, surfing on the waves. Back at Coxsackie around 4:30 p.m. Car to New York.

Stockport Creek

Capable

By Johna Till Johnson

Yellow Submarine Paddle 3

Vlad in his element: eminently capable!

In response to today’s daily prompt.

What does it mean to be “capable”? It’s more than having a set of skills that enable you to cope with a situation. It’s about knowing which of those skills to deploy, in which order. Knowing all the little nuances that affect the situation–and how to adapt and respond to those nuances.

It’s an understatement to say that Vlad was a capable paddler. That he was, and much more, too.