“It’s All About the Joy”

By Johna Till Johnson
Photos by Vladimir Brezina

Do you ever have those days where you just don’t feel like finishing what you start? I do, but not usually when it comes to kayaking.

But that’s how I felt on a recent Saturday afternoon. It was a warm autumn day, and we’d planned a fast Manhattan circumnavigation, heading around the island clockwise, rather than the more usual counterclockwise. Starting from Pier 40, a clockwise circumnavigation is usually faster than a counterclockwise one because you can catch faster current in all three main legs of the trip—up the Hudson River (about 11 miles), down the Harlem river (about 8), and down the East River (another 8), leaving you fighting the current only at the very tail end (from the Battery back up to Pier 40).

If the stars align right—and wind and currents fall into place—a reasonably fast paddler can finish a clockwise circumnavigation in under five hours. Racers can do it in three-and-change.

But nothing was aligning for me this particular day. I’d been sick the day before, and was still feeling the effects. I was dehydrated and tired from lack of sleep. And this was the maiden voyage of my brand-new drysuit, provided by Kokotat as a (free!) replacement for the one that had delaminated after four years of serious wear-and-tear.

If you’re a drysuit-wearer, you’re probably familiar with that “new drysuit” feeling: the neck gasket is tight enough to choke you, and you feel you can’t quite catch your breath. And if it’s even slightly warm—as it was that day—the heat inside the suit leads to a feeling of suffocation.

True, we couldn’t have asked for better conditions. The wind was a solid south-southwest, pushing us up the Hudson with the current. And the sky was clear and bright, with gentle afternoon sunshine.


Toward the George Washington Bridge

Under the bridge

Unfortunately we got something of a late start, and by the time we’d reached the George Washington Bridge, the current was weakening. As I slogged up the Hudson, I had the strongest possible feeling that this was a stupid idea, that I wasn’t going to have any fun. That the trip was possibly dangerous, even. I was paddling badly: hacking at the water in short strokes and having to brace more often than the conditions really warranted..

The Columbia “C” in Spuyten Duyvil

But as we went under the railroad bridge into Spuyten Duyvil, the autumn sunshine and smell of dry leaves revived my spirits somewhat, and I began thinking this trip might be okay after all..

Under the University Heights Bridge in the Harlem River



About halfway down the Harlem River the current had fully turned against us. I put my back into paddling and moved over to the edge of the waterway, where the contrary current was weaker. Even against the current, I was keeping a good 3-knot pace, watching the stone walls slip by.

Late afternoon sunshine in the Harlem River

More Harlem River bridges

As we came around a bend, I saw a cluster of folks standing by the railings. Suddenly they started gesturing wildly—they were fishermen, and I was about to run into their lines. I nodded emphatically to show I understood and veered out into the center of the river.

They smiled and waved their thanks. One of them yelled out, “Staying warm?” Me: “Toasty! Catching any fish?” His response: “Oh yeah!”

The Park Avenue Bridge

Next, I saw a guy about my age walking a dog along the river. His face lit up as I paddled past. We exchanged greetings, and he said: “I would love to do that!”

“You can!” I said, and told him about the free kayaking at Pier 40 in the summer, and about NY Kayak Company. “I will do that!” he said, and sounded as if he meant it. I liked the thought that, just possibly, I’d recruited a new person into the sport of urban kayaking.

The History Channel sign, near the bottom of the Harlem River

A bit later on, just before the Harlem empties into the East River, we rafted up for a break.  My fingers were cold (for the first time all day) but we’d made hot tea with plenty of lemon and sugar, and I began feeling a little better.

As the sun set in a blaze of purple and orange, we paddled along the last stretch of the Harlem River. The Hell Gate Bridge appeared as we rounded the final bend, then gradually faded into darkness as dusk fell over Manhattan. The lights of the Triborough Bridge winked on as I caught my last glimpse of the Hell Gate Bridge, its black curves traced against the gloom.

Last light over Manhattan

By the time we were ready to cross the first strong eddyline right before Mill Rock—the East River ebb was now in full swing—it was nearly dark.  The usual illusion of paddling faster kicked in. I concentrated on maintaining my balance and staying relaxed as we sliced through the churning water, at the same time keeping an eye on the red and green lights of a couple of large vessels that seemed to be heading in our general direction.

Then we caught sight of an official-looking boat, blue lights flashing, racing towards us. At first we thought it was the police, but it turned out to be a Coast Guard boat. It pulled alongside us. “Where are you headed?” one of the officers asked. “To Pier 40,” Vlad replied. “Oh, okay,” was the noncommittal—perhaps surprised—response.

As we headed down the East River, on the Manhattan side of Roosevelt Island, the boat stayed watchfully alongside us. I was just wondering why when the two larger vessels emerged out of the gloom, both in the channel to our left.

One was a DEP sludge boat, heading upriver. The other was a barge, heading downriver. To get out of their way, we would normally have paddled a little closer to the Manhattan seawall to our right, but we couldn’t because the Coast Guard boat was there.

As usual, I was listening to the radio, and caught the following exchange:

First captain (in a calm, even voice):   “There are a couple of kayakers coming down the channel. I don’t know what they’re doing there, but I just wanted to give you a heads up.”

Second captain (a bit more jovial, hint of a Noo Yawk accent): “Thanks, Captain!”

First captain: “There’s always something, isn’t there?”

Second captain: “Oh yeah.. It’s all about the joy.”

It’s all about the joy? What did he mean by that? I turned the question over in my head as the ships glided past. The Coat Guard vessel zoomed off into the darkness, its work done. And we  zipped down the East River, buoyed by the accelerating current.

We worked our way past the East River ferry terminals, first the one at 34th street and then the one at 25th street, where a brightly illuminated party boat shot out unexpectedly in front of our noses. Then we dodged the yellow Water Taxis emerging from the South Street Seaport and rounded the bend of the Battery. The Staten Island Ferry was docked, and we anxiously watched the passengers getting on the brightly illuminated boat as we paddled in the darkness past its stern just before it departed.

Then we pushed on up the Hudson, against the current once more.  There were wind-driven swells at my back, and I was paddling slowly and badly again, with an unexpected pain in one shoulder.

But despite all that, I was drinking in the sight of the lights across the water, the smell of the cool evening air. I never tire of the jagged Jersey City skyline, with the red “Erie Lackawanna” sign that’s now sadly reduced to “Eri Ackawan”.

As we pulled into the gentle waters of the Pier 40 embayment, I thought to myself that the captain was right. No matter what unexpected obstacles come your way—an overheated drysuit, a bad paddling day, or a couple of errant kayakers—it’s all about the joy.

8 responses to ““It’s All About the Joy”

  1. ” I’d been sick the day before, and was still feeling the effects. I was dehydrated and tired from lack of sleep.” Say no more; you are nuts… Great story though :)
    PS: I sympathize with the shoulder-pain; at the mayor’s cup my right shoulder started to bother me seriously around Hell’s Gate, the next two hours were pretty awful (especially since I didn’t have any vitamin M (motrin).


    • Johna Till Johnson

      Well, I’m nuts, that’s true :-). And yes, I kept thinking of you and your shoulder–fortunately it turned out I’d just over-feathered my paddle too much. Plus had crap form….. Thanks for reading!


  2. Ugh, I hate that new drysuit feeling. Like a little monkey clinging to your neck just a little tighter than is comfortable.
    I’m reminded of Jef Rep’s sagacious slogan: “Don’t drown, turn around.” I’m also reminded of how often we all (including Jef) ignore it.


  3. Johna Till Johnson

    This one was a judgment call, and kind of borderline. If I’d been alone, I wouldn’t have gone. Or if the conditions had been at all sketchy… as it was, Vlad and I stayed closer together than normal, particularly during the ferry crossings. And fortunately the gasket is fitting better now!


  4. This is a beautiful account. Almost makes me want to take up urban kayaking (in addition to urban swimming) . . .!!


  5. Johna Till Johnson

    *blush*… Thank you, Janet! And watching you guys (virtually, through Vlad’s photos) makes me feel the same about urban swimming. Wish they had a competition for masters-breast-stroke-urban swimming!


  6. Yikes, that’s quite an adventure. Wonderful to read about, but I think I’m an arnchair kayaker – at least in cold weather with big boats nearby! I’d be the guy walking the dog, looking at you and thinking, “How cool is that,” happy just to see you two paddle on by. Love the story and the photos!


Comments are most welcome!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s