Category Archives: New York City

Staten Island Serendipity

By Johna Till Johnson
Photos by Vladimir Brezina

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It was the first Saturday in November, and we desperately needed to get out for a long paddle—we’re seriously starting to train for the Everglades Challenge next spring, and we need to start putting in the mileage.

The currents indicated a southerly trip, and Vlad suggested one that had become very familiar over the years: An out-and-back trip to Sandy Hook. I wasn’t enthusiastic. Much as I love the trip—the closest you can get to open water in New York City’s waterways—we’d done the trip quite often recently, and it felt a bit like a treadmill workout: Paddling for the sake of exercise, not adventure.

I counter-proposed a trip around Staten Island, which we haven’t seen much of this year. I particularly missed the beaches along the south shore, and the excitement of traversing the Kill van Kull at night. But Vlad pointed out that the day wasn’t ideal for a Staten Island circumnavigation—given that the southbound current would only start late in the morning, we’d get back at midnight, if we were lucky. And he didn’t want to do an out-and-back down the coastline of Staten Island, because he likes having a destination.

So Sandy Hook it was.

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Spooktacular!

By Johna Till Johnson
Photos by Vladimir Brezina

DSC_0112 cropped smallMy favorite holiday is Hallowe’en. What’s not to love? There are small children, gaudy costumes, and plenty of candy. Plus, my Goth-girl side revels in the idea of celebrating darkness, death, and the onset of winter.

But over the years, I’ve celebrated more in the breach than in the observance, since the end of October is one of the busiest times in my industry. (I’ll never forget hearing the joyous noises of the Austin Hallowe’en parade from my hotel room, where I was chained to my computer with an imminent deadline.)

So this year, I was delighted to break free from work and meet Vlad over at the Third Annual Halloween Spooktacular. It’s an Upper East Side block party, or rather mini-street fair. The organizers block off the street and hold costume contests—not just for children, but for adults, families, and pets too. There’s a DJ, a bubble artist, and did I mention the candy? And the houses are lavishly—indeed, extravagantly—decorated. (After all, this is the Upper East Side.)

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Weekly Photo Challenge: Eerie

By Vladimir Brezina

This week’s Photo Challenge is Eerie.

I hope all of you had a lovely Halloween…

Eerie

It’s That Scary Time of Year Again…

By Vladimir Brezina

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… and the residents of our neighborhood don’t let you forget it!

(click on any photo to start slideshow)

Last year’s Halloween photos are here, and the previous year’s here.

NYC Vignette

By Johna Till Johnson

DSC_0408 cropped smallFriday night in autumn.

It’s about 8:15 PM on a Friday night. We’re finally kicking back, at the end of yet another 60-hour workweek. It’s been intense, and we’re both looking forward to the weekend.

We’ve decided that I will get groceries. Vlad will prep and cook. But we’re switching from “94” (the apartment at 94th Street and 3rd Avenue) to “92” (the apartment at 92nd Street and Madison).  We are both going over, but separately— Vlad to carry over some packages, and I to get the groceries.

I head out first.

As I walk down the gentle slope of 3rd Avenue, I notice something odd: police barricades. And not just barricades, but police—every few yards, there’s a police officer, or an empty squad car.

 There are more as I turn up 96th Street and begin to go up the hill.

I pass a man smoking a cigar on his front stoop, eyes bright in his weathered dark skin. “What’s this all about?”

“President Obama is in town. It’s the exit to the FDR,” he says.

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At Home on the Range (of NYC Waterways)

Guest post by Julie McCoy, aka Kayak Cowgirl

Julie McCoy

Julie McCoy the Cowgirl, in last season’s fashion, yellow Gore-Tex and a Kenneth Cole beanie

Julie is a long-time NYC kayaker who describes her adventures in the blog Kayak Cowgirl. Originally from Oklahoma, nowadays she’s a Big City girl. But she still spends as many days as she can in the saddle—only now it’s the cockpit of a kayak. 

We asked her to post to Wind Against Current on a topic of her choice, and she opted to describe her evolution as a New York City kayaker. Here goes:

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Paddling in Piermont Marsh, about 12 miles north of Manhattan

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What I like about paddling around New York City is the sheer variety of experiences. There are peaceful marshes to the south and to the north; narrow tidal straits, such as Hell Gate; oceanic swells in the lower harbor, and traffic nearly everywhere. Add in the effects of tides and wind, against the varieties of urban backdrop, and it would be difficult to exhaust the possibilities.

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A replica of Henry Hudson’s Half Moon passing a bay full of novice kayakers

My first memory of paddling was as a member of “the public” in a sit-on-top near Pier 26. I was talking to someone just upstream from me, and when I turned around, the Queen Mary 2 was pulling in – an immense hotel gliding on the water, at a safe distance but filling my view. Later, a guy in a deck boat paddled by and gave me some tips on how to paddle better. I blew him off – I was having fun!

I would encounter him again, years later, as one of my coaches.

It was a couple of years before I got involved in the kayak community. I volunteered at a club in the Upper West Side, carrying boats out of shipping containers every weekend to the sidewalk overlooking the river, then helping people in and out of boats. Eventually, I started spending more time at the main location for that club, in midtown, and got more experience and training. Pretty soon I was helping shepherd trips of “the public” myself!

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Paddling with a group to Hoboken; Empire State Building in the background

A few years went on, and I got to know quite a bit of the Hudson River (at least the part near Manhattan). I paddled to grocery stores on either side of the river, to small beaches in New Jersey, and to other piers hosting other clubs. I paddled to the Statue of Liberty and beyond, and to a fairy tale boathouse on the Harlem River.

And then one day, I did it—I circumnavigated Manhattan!

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The Argonaut resting at Swindler’s Cove, near Peter Sharp Boathouse

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From South Beach, looking to the ocean, Hoffman Island in view

By then, I was hooked. I took a class, and then another, and eventually bought my own boat. Now I was in dangerous territory, with nothing to stop me but my own common sense. I went out alone, first on short trips and eventually longer ones. I started inviting other people along: I invited two women friends to paddle out to Staten Island with me, to an area near the Verrazano Bridge called South Beach just a few miles south of Manhattan.

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Amtrak on the Hudson line, near the Bridge to Nowhere, just north of Spuyten Duyvil, wintertime

I moved uptown, and started paddling out of the Inwood Canoe club in what I like to  call, “Upstate Manhattan”. It’s across the river from the New Jersey Palisades, with easy access to the Harlem River. And suddenly I was in a whole new world. Last fall, I paddled with some friends through Bronx Kill and out into the East River between Queens and the Bronx. We took another trip to Hell Gate and back. I started paddling in the winter to keep going year-round.

Since then, I’ve taken some more classes, and sharpened my skills. This past summer, I worked as a teaching assistant at a local shop while continuing to organize trips with different clubs I’m involved with. I went camping, up to Croton Point, 23 miles north of the northernmost tip of Manhattan. I’m planning more elaborate trips, inspired in part by Vlad and Johna’s adventures at home and abroad.

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Robbins Reef Light, Upper Bay of New York Harbor

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Rode hard and put away wet

So why am I a kayak cowgirl? I was born in Oklahoma, where cowhands rode the range, taking odd jobs doing everything from mending fences to herding cattle. To me, the sea is a range, and the growing number of clubs on the waterfront are like little ranches (some, more like dude ranches).  I herd clients, teach the basics, and do a little boat and fence-mending myself – especially in the wake of Superstorm Sandy.

In the saddle, so to speak, I’ve got everything I need for a ride packed. I keep myself entertained with some country western songs, one of my favorites an apt contrast for modern city slickers:

Oh give me land, lots of land, with the starry skies above,
Don’t fence me in.
Let me ride, through the wide, open country that I love,
Don’t fence me in.
Let me be by myself in the evening breeze,
Listen to the murmur of the cottonwood trees!
Send me me off forever, but I ask you please,
Don’t fence me in.

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Returning to Manhattan

Travel Theme: Deep

By Vladimir Brezina

IMGP1224 cropped small 2Ailsa’s travel-themed photo challenge this week is Deep.

You never know how deep it is until you wade in…

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New York City, December 2010. More snow photos from that winter are here and here.

Travel Theme: Height

By Vladimir Brezina

Ailsa’s travel-themed photo challenge this week is Height.

When returning to New York City by plane, I always try to sit in a window seat. And these days, I look not so much at the land below, but at the water. One of the great pleasures of landing in New York is recognizing from above all the waters where we kayak, the bays and islands that we now know so intimately.

From a kayak, the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge appears gigantic—look how it dwarfs Fort Wadsworth to the right of it, itself a massive structure…

Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, from a kayak

… but from the air it is just a toy.

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Here’s the southwestern tip of Staten Island…

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… Gowanus Bay with the Loujaine

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… and finally, the East River and its bridges!

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Sunday in the Park

By Vladimir Brezina

DSC_0042 cropped smallOn Sunday at sunset I went out into Central Park. The Fall colors that I wanted to photograph were still sparse.

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On the other hand, on a beautiful warm evening, the park was buzzing with activity—

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Celebrating Autumn With a Walk to Bohemian Hall

By Johna Till Johnson
Photos by Vladimir Brezina

Every so often, two great ideas combine to form an even better one.

DSC_0616 cropped smallThat’s what happened this past Saturday. Last fall, Vlad suggested we go to the Bohemian Hall Beer Garden for Oktoberfest. This was more than just a yen for drinking beer outdoors—Vlad is actually from the original Bohemia, and he enjoys discovering hidden flashes of the “old country” all the way here in NYC. (Another discovery is Hospoda, an eastside Czech restaurant, but that’s for another post.) Anyway, we didn’t make it last year, but the idea stayed on our list.

Bohemian Hall is in Astoria, Queens. It’s actually very near to where we live—as the crow flies. We can almost see it from our apartment. The problem is that between us and it flows the East River.

But, there is a bridge…

Hell Gate bridgesWe paddle under it all the time. But I’ve been wanting to walk across the Triborough (now Robert F. Kennedy) Bridge for the past few months since my friend Marc mentioned it was possible. The Triborough Bridge was built for cars, with pedestrians a grudging afterthought. But is can be done—Marc lives in Astoria and regularly hikes across the bridge into Manhattan.

And looking at the map, talk about serendipity: It turns out Bohemian Hall is just a couple of blocks from the bridge’s pedestrian exit in Astoria.

What could be more perfect than a walk over the bridge culminating in a visit to the beer garden? To top it off, this weekend, for the beginning of Oktoberfest, Bohemian Hall was featuring authentic roast pig  in addition to the usual sausage, sauerkraut, and beer. And the weather was absolutely perfect: A golden early-autumn day.

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